Friday, 10/11. There was almost a sunrise. But the sun didn’t appear until about 8. I’d realized that today is probably my last chance to sleep in for a while, so I did. Left at about 11.

The beach was busy, on a Friday! (Jumping ahead, it’s now 9 PM and there is a band playing. Good time to have a deaf ear.) I did a slow walk until 4. Visited Fort Copacabana, which has a fine army museum. Gorgeous view of the beach. Nicely placed cafe along the coastline.

Ipanema Beach is obviously newer and better arranged. Had a snack at a very nice beachfront cafe. The Cop’s aren’t as fancy.

There aren’t any cigarette butts around, but there are certainly a lot of butts in view. As advertised. Pick-up soccer ball bouncing circles are common too. I thought they were groups of friends, but realized that anyone walking down the beach could join in. (I Did Not Know: Three of the four football teams in Rio are also rowing clubs. I bought a “Clube de Regatas do Flamengo” cap.)

Allowed a guy to “shine” my rubber beach sandals. Persistent, and he spoke English. I had too much cash anyway. Even paid the musicians.

I’m glad I got one day of sunny weather here. It’s a different city with the sun out. I need an Uber at 4 AM. I’ve asked if that’s a problem and the reaction is “why would it be a problem?”.

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Thursday, 10/10. Full day tour. 20 people from various countries. Spanish and English. First was Christ the Redeemer statue. Just as we arrived at the final climb, the skies opened up. It stopped just as we were getting back on the bus. I noticed that it’s big. Beyond that, no impression.

The football stadium. Apparently, if you’re a big football fan, this stadium means a lot. There were several people visibly thrilled to get photos of the entrance, holding faux World Cup trophies. The carnival parade site. It’s a dedicated 1 km stretch with stands on both sides. Another huge deal that I couldn’t appreciate. The production of being a team in the parade is impressive. The Rose Parade it is not. The same steps I saw yesterday. I walked around the lower shopping area. The cathedral I saw yesterday. This time we entered. It is very very pretty. If only they could have made the outside less pedestrian.

Lunch. Fantastic. Salad buffet, then you sit while servers bring out a variety of meats on skewers. They slide pieces onto your plate or slice chunks off. So many carving knives flying around gave me pause. But it was all very good.

Sugarloaf Mountain. Look it up in Google, because I have no photos of it or its surroundings. Low clouds. The cable ways were fast. At some point the cable car just disappears into the clouds.

Not a spectacular day. Tomorrow it’s supposed to be mostly clear. I’m planning to walk the beach extensive, but my feet are pretty sore from the sidewalks. They are mostly made of broken tile pieces, meaning they aren’t smooth. But I’ll see.

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Wednesday, 10/9.  Steady Rain, with a few gaps.  4 hour walking tour with one other.  Excellent tour guide from Intrepid Urban Adventures.  Couldn’t stop the rain though.  Who can?  Subway is better than some.  Lines 1, 2, and 4.  Line 3 is an urban legend.  Center city would have been pretty except for the rain.  Opera House was beautiful even in the rain.  Old Tram to the top of one hill.  View at the top would have been nice except for, well, you know.  Artist studio/gift shop was excellent, though I feared dripping on the items. Another gift shop. There is style here that uniquely Brazilian. I liked it. (I am continuing to detect little English, but not the “attitude” that one senses in France. They just don’t learn it. That’s fine. But now that there is no $450 visa fee(!), they may start seeing more Americans.)

Tiny monkeys with long tails.  (No birds; odd.)  Snack of cheese bread and semi-solid fruit juice.  Famous Selaron Steps, covered with tiles from around the world, is an impressive example of international unity. Hanshin Tigers have a tile, to illustrate how diverse the tiles are.

Returned to the Beach, had lunch of beef shish kabob and a glass of Caipirinha, made with their national whisky, Cachaça.  Fruit additive is your choice. I had passion fruit. Returned to the room early to dry out.  Stayed.  No great interest in the nightlife.  Beach cafes are still open after 10.

I was soaked for most of the day. My waterproof cork hat isn’t. My waterproof Columbia jacket also isn’t much. But my wetness might have been from sweat, though it wasn’t too hot. Today in the moment was less than wonderful, but in memory it’ll be excellent. Tomorrow I go on an 8 hour tour. On a bus thankfully. (As I type this, it’s pouring. Sigh.)

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Monday/Tuesday, 10/7/8. On Monday I drove down to George Washington’s Grist Mill and Distillery.  Nice easy tour.  Wouldn’t buy the product though.  “Making it like the father of our country used to” is not advised.  They have low production and high demand, so the price is excessive if your intent is to drink it.  If your only goal is to stick in on a mantlepiece, then it’s a fine souvenir.

Lunch with old co-workers.  We’re all getting old together.

I paid for a fancy credit card which gets me into many airport lounges.  How the 20(?) percenters live.  Free food and drinks, comfortable chairs.

I’ve long considered Boeing 767 to be the worst plane.  Flight to Rio de Janeiro confirmed my opinion.  I did my civic duty and traded my empty three seat row with an empty two-row.  Family of four, one a crier, all got to sit in the same row.  Even with an empty seat, the plane stinks.  Five inch screen?

I don’t know if I’ve ever walked further to get out of an airport.  Uber was fine.  Hawkers on the highway.  Driver actually bought a bag of puffed rice from one.  We weren’t moving much anyway.  Surprisingly few Japanese cars.  Good number of Chevys and Fords. I think I saw an Olympic venue falling apart. The velodrome? Now a shanty town or farmers market.

Airbnb’s view superb.  But today was muggy, cloudy, windy.  Huge waves.  Had a beachside snack.  Not third-world cheap. Massive beach.  I was just wandering waiting for the Airbnb to be ready.  Overdressed.  No one mugged me, so that’s a plus.  Haven’t found a single person outside the airport who speaks English.

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Sunday, 10/6.  On the road again.  The Blog continues.  As a reminder (to myself), I maintain this blog as more of a ship’s log than a beautiful essay on world travels.  Sentences may not be complete, flowery language may be missing.  Hopefully the photos will show what the prose does not tell.

I’m writing this from a hotel room in Annapolis.  There was a convenient juxtaposition between a Naval Academy mini-reunion (43 years) and my trip.  Met old friends and their better halves. Watched an incredible football game.  Spent far too much money on far too much food and wine.

Four days in Rio de Janeiro on my own, then an 18 day Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) tour of Patagonia, beginning with Bueno Aires.  An extension will take some of us to Iguazu Falls, a competitor of Victoria Falls in size and beauty.  The base tour includes a four day cruise in and around Tierra del Fuego (Cape Horn, Strait of Magellan, etc.) with twice daily zodiac rides to shore.  OAT warns to distraction the varied weather we may have.  I’ve got layers of cloths and thick skin.  Our Trip Leader has already communicated twice by email and once on the phone.

Patagonia is well known not only for it’s variety of nature but also the diversity of humanity.  Natives (rare), German, Spanish (Basque), British, even Italian.  They brought their culture and it all meshes sloppily (I’m told).  Nature, though, is the prime purpose of the tour. I’m sure we’ll gain more reasons to believe that the earth is warming. Adding to the excitement is Argentina’s political problems and collapsing economy.  I look forward to it all.

It all begins Tuesday morning on Copacabana Beach, which is now playing second fiddle as an attraction to nearby Ipanema Beach.  Every web site warns of the dangers of Rio.  I’ve got a day and a half of [protected] tours.  Otherwise I’ll be on the beach, where danger is less than elsewhere.

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Saturday, 6/8 (bleeding into Sunday). No photos. Flight to Cairo. Delayed at Cairo Airport waiting for our police car escort. Visited Old Cairo, or Historic Cairo, or Islamic Cairo, take your pick. Toured two Coptic churches and one synagogue. I honestly wasn’t interested. Lunch was at a restaurant in one of the older markets. Spent time wandering the old market. Arrived at our hotel for a little rest. Farewell dinner was in a very pretty restaurant across a very busy street from the hotel (there are no crosswalks). Ate salmon. Farewells. Back to hotel for a few hours, then took a taxi to the airport. The driver complemented me on my ability to sleep in the car. Said most Americans are too terrified of the driving.

Flight to Moscow was extremely hot. Torture. Moscow Airport is surprising modern. Flight to LA was just fine.

Evaluation: It was unseasonably hot, which nicely kept the crowds away, but its constancy became a mental drag. Egyptians have embraced the “If the minimum wasn’t good enough, it wouldn’t be the minimum” concept. Streets are littered with trash. Driving is unregulated. Street hawkers were as common as pigeons, though more irritating. Police and army looked demoralized and worrisomely inattentive. The citizens we met were wonderfully cheerful, but clearly resigned to living without any government support. (The Nile River had NO navigation aids.) It’s a mystery where the (not insignificant) entry fees to all the ruins go. But the ruins were all fascinating and certainly worth the trip. Even though I’ve lived with pictures and stories of the pyramids, they were still awesome.

Next adventure is in October. Destination: Rio de Janeiro, Argentina, Chile.

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Friday, 6/7. Departure for the balloon ride was 3:30. Boat across the Nile. Oddly, the nearest bridge is many miles north of Luxor. Revenue for ferries? Quick trip to the lift-off point. 8 balloons? Smooth ride. Captain was excellent pilot and tour guide. We rose, fell, rose again, to tour different vistas. Unfortunately, though the views were great, it was still too dark for good photos. Landing was exceptionally smooth. First recovery crew member arrived on a donkey. Overall, it was well worth the money and time.

After return to hotel and breakfast, departed for the Valley of the Kings. By boat again. First stop was, a huge temple built by the only Queen of Egypt, Hatshepsut. Lots of historical intrigue on how she became Queen and how future rulers tried to hide her existence. The temple has been largely rebuilt out of its ruins. It is very large, but after our visit to the Valley of the Kings, it shrank in our memories.

The Valley is actually on the opposite side of the mountain holding Hatshepsut’s temple. A 15 minute ride to the entrance, then a five minute tram shuttle. The area is much more compact and less glamorous than I expected. Could have been any simple box canyon. King Tut’s tomb is literally under another’s, which helped hide it. Visited five tombs, including Tut’s. Tut, having died young and unexpectedly, had far and away the simplest tomb. Indeed, it was originally meant for another purpose. Turns out that once a king dies, his servants have only 70 days to entomb him. Most tombs are in fact unfinished. The one completed tomb that we visited, holding two kings, was splendid. All were impressive. No cameras are allowed in Tut’s tomb, which is being carefully maintained. Has its own weather station to monitor atmospheric conditions.

Stopped by the house of the founder of Tut, Howard Carter. It’s a museum. Lunch in town. Dinner near hotel. Stuffed pigeon. I’m ready to head home. One more day.

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Thursday, 6/6. Departed boat, nice drive along the Nile to Luxor. Lots of farmland. Luxor is smaller in appearance than expected. Hotel (on the shore of the Nile) is famous but ancient. Huge hallways, few electrical outlets, stuffy in attitude. Folks coming out of the dining room were formally dressed (one man had tux with long tails!). Many people were wearing period clothing for unknown reasons. For me (dressed in dusty cloths in need of a wash), it all just seemed wrong.

Karnack and Luxor Temples (on the eastern side of the Nile) were huge. Country is actively trying to rebuild both by re-erecting the torn down parts. A giant jigsaw puzzle. The two are connected by a 3 km avenue (nearly all renovated) lined with statues. Karnack had been expanded by generations of Kings in no particular fashion. Looked unorganized. Luxor is in the middle of the city and had been nearly buried in trash until Egypt began renovations. The still operating mosque’s original front door (in the center of the temple) is 20 feet above the dug-out temple grounds. Lots of young boys wandering round with no purpose. Made our security escort nervous.

Dinner was fine. Cafe afterwards (smoking pipes, loud music) not so much. Led half the group back to the hotel. Tour Leader Doug.

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Thursday, 6/6. Long day today. Tomorrow begins at 3:30 for a balloon flight over the Valley of the Kings, wind permitting, then a full day’s tour of the West Bank. Up to five tombs. Still stifling hot. Frankly, I’m tired of temples, heat and social banter.

Post will have to wait.

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Wednesday, 6/6. Visited a very small town on an island where the main topic is water, of all things. Each half of the island gets 8 consecutive days of irrigation water. There’s a government employee who monitors usage. We spent the morning with a retired official and his family. Great time. They dressed our ladies in traditional Egyptian clothing. I shot off balloons for a neighbor’s child to catch. Most children were on the other side of the island (in new post-Ramadan cloths) for festivities.

In the afternoon we arrived in Ensa, the end of the line for the cruise. (There is a dam with locks downriver that unpowered boats can’t use.) Luxor is only 60 kilometers away. Visited a Temple with original paint still visible. Covered by soot for centuries, now being cleaned off.

Skipped dinner. Chicken, fish, veggies. It’s becoming very redundant. Farewell music and dancing (sans me).

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