Thursday, Feb 13.  Wonderfully we got through the trip without a single group photo.  Until today as we gathered for the ride to the airport.  Just the right number of group photos.  Facing a 41 hour hotel room-to-front door trip.  (Postscript Note: due to Friday afternoon rush hour, it was actually 42.5 hours.) Two hour flight to Johannesburg, layover, 11 hours to Heathrow, layover, 11 hours to LAX, Global Pass interview, Shuttle, rental car to home.

The highs were higher than I expected.  So many animals.  So active.  

The lows were lower than I expected.  Hot, flies, hot, loooong truck drives without stops to stretch, hot.  (Our last camp allowed offtrack driving.  We went places I didn’t think we’d get out of.  Both scary and exhilarating.). Spending 5+ hours in the Disney Indiana Jones’ Adventure “enhanced motion vehicle” was more than I could take.

Comparison between Victoria Falls and South America’s Iguazu Falls:  Both have their personality.  Pedestrians get more “up close” opportunities at Iguazu.  The nearly uninterrupted straight-line view of Victoria is impressive.  But the views from the boats put Victoria on top.  Riding into the falls at Iguazu was fun, but looking up at the 300 feet Victoria Falls is unforgettable.  (In support of Niagara Falls, both Iguazu and Victoria have fantastic high water seasons with equal periods of low water. Niagara is a monster year-round.)

People-wise, we experienced rural Southern Africa, with eternally cheerful and helpful people.  But virtually every person we encountered was dependent on tourism.  Including the school, which accepts donations.  Crossing borders was ridiculously costly, complex and counterproductive, not to mention sanitation nightmares.  Predates technology.   I therefore cannot make any judgement regarding Gross National Happiness.  I suspect that it’s much lower than what we saw. My personal opinion is that their dependence on tribal/family traditions over what’s best for the country is a huge drag on progress, as well as an aid to their biggest admitted problem: corruption.

This trip was unforgettable and fascinating. OAT did as good a job setting it up as I can imagine. Our Trip Leader Mado was extraordinary. But I can’t say I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. However, any blame lays squarely on my idiosyncrasies.

Wednesday, Feb 12.  An easy day, schedule-wise.  In the morning descended to the foot of the Falls to ride a jet boat.  Helmets required due to falling rocks. Perilous descent and ascent.  Jet boat was great.  We didn’t go into the falls (speed of water after a 300 feet fall might be painful), but we did get into the “mist”.  Mist my foot.  Hard rain.  Amazingly, the cliff face opposite the Falls had dozens of large rivulets, composed of mist runoff.  Riding the rapids below the falls was cool.  The boat driver would surf the crest of a wave.  (Troubling admission by guide: Among the three boat operators and two shore support staff, only two could swim.)

After lunch I wandered over to the Victoria Falls Hotel, which has a great view of the bridge and “Smoke That Thunders”.  (No view of the actual Falls.)  Typical Victorian era establishment.  Historical photos, art, statues, etc.  Stanley Bar had specialized drinks.  I had an “I Presume”.  They also had the Raffles Hotel signature Singapore Sling.  I experienced British “slow time”.  Sat back and watched the world rotate.

An afternoon rain increased humidity to about 200%.  Walk back to our hotel was agony. No shopping.

Final Night dinner was on a boat.  Nice time.  Another rainbow event.  As we were eating an acapella group magically appeared and were sensational.  Learned that the chorus to the modern version of “The Lion Sleeps Tonight” is a mispronunciation of a Zulu word from the original rendition.  What’s supposed to be “You are a lion” is pure gibberish.

Tuesday, Feb 11. Returned to Victoria Falls Via small plane.  Visited massive hollow tree that was once used as a jail.  Others sights.  Border crossing had it’s routine massive line of trucks, plus an oder suggesting a lack of restrooms. Lunch at a “traditional” restaurant that is never visited by locals.   Sampled a traditional musical instrument (Mbira). Ordered a few t-shirts.

Saw Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side. Heavy, heavy mist.  “Smoke that Thunders” indeed.  It’s not impressively loud, owing to being 300 feet above the base.  But it is long, needing 2 hours to cover the Zimbabwe side.  Due to rains last week in Angola, more water is coming over than during our last visit.  Fewer baboons. It’s impressively wide and deep. But we weren’t able to approach it as closely as Iguazu Falls in Argentina, so some of the impact was lacking.

Dinner in the hotel (yeah!). Gator on a stick appetizer. Dry, but tasted like chicken. Server was all out of sorts with how much food I didn’t eat. I think I’m losing weight, which is not a bad thing.

It’s nice to be back to AC and wifi.  Swam in the hotel pool.

Monday, Feb 10. Last full day of safari drives. We observed lots of wildlife, but the medium high point was the hippos while the high high point was the elephants. The day before I’d mentioned that it would be good to stop moving on whenever the cameras stopped clicking. Our encounter with the elephants was the perfect opportunity to put my wish into practice.

Wild cate dashed out of some tall grass that we were driving through. I doubt we’d have seen it otherwise. Hyenas were a surprise. Everyone though they only surfaced at night. A family of ostriches were a treat. Birds harassing an eagle was fun to watch. It would raid a nest with birds flocking all over. Eventually the eagle abandoned the effort. Mongoose occupying an abandoned termite hill.

Large pod of hippos. One came out and headed to a grove to beat the sun(?). We weren’t aware that hippos hid in the bushes. Made restroom stops a little more exciting.

The herd of elephants was a three ring circus. Things were going on everywhere. A dispute between two. Several playing in the river. At one point a very large elephant broke up the pool play, chasing them all out. Then it rolled around in the same spot. But the hands-down coolest spectacle were the babies. There were two that were well under a year old. One fearlessly crossed the river with her far larger elders. We were concerned for her safety. At times it was clear that the adults were shielding them from us. A great morning.

The PM and last safari was largely disappointing, the guide trying to find us a leopard. Dinner was another farewell occasion, complete with bonfire. In 90 degree heat, made no sense to me. I was getting mauled by mosquitos, so I left early.

Tomorrow we head to Victoria Falls. Two days to go.

Sunday, Feb 9. Once again the main goal was to spot a cat or two. After fruitless searches in one general area, the guide started towards another promising location. Barely were the words out of his mouth before a lion passively crossed our track. While passing behind him we saw that there was another about to cross. We began to follow alongside, noting three more! The guide said these females were all young sisters.

Throughout our time observing the lions they expressed zero interest in our existence. Total apathy. When they glanced our way at all, I was reminded of a movie line: “If I thought about you at all, I’d probably hate you.” Their chief desire was shade from the sun. Lots and lots of yawning, which was always fascinating. But I think they wake up tired. They did relocate several times, each time in a languid saunter.

We returned (late) to camp, full of excitement. The unanimous desire was to find them again in the afternoon. First was the siesta, then session about Botswana.

The lions were again found, not 100 yards from where we left them. They were continuing their naps, though occasionally they licked their paws or groomed one another. We were always no more than two cars lengths away. Just mesmerizing.

Saturday, Feb 8. Single engine plane flew us. No copilot. Got photos from the air, which was neat. After greetings at perhaps the best representative safari camp, we did another ride, again in search of cats. No success again.

The Delta is unique in that it doesn’t drain into a body of water. Teutonic shifts over time have changed the terrain. The water now soaks through the sand into the water table. Climate change has also reduced the amount of water that reaches the Delta from Angola.

Our camp’s view is a field with pond. Over the next three days we were treated with varying scenes from our camp chairs. Just like TV.

Friday, Feb7.  We spent the day dedicated to finding a glimpse of a lion or leopard.  Failure.  To be sure, we saw various other wildlife, many entertaining.  Had an outdoor brunch, adjoining some kind of youth tour, speaking German(?).  They were thrilled with the baboons.  We were justifiably blasé and a little annoyed by the little rascals.

Radio calls seeking finders of cats sent us in various directions and re-directions.  One had the driver perilously speeding down a sandy track that was over-the-top risky to just maybe see a leopard.  I was ready to quit long before the guides were.

We got back to base for the customary siesta, the first while I was feeling good and therefore not crawling into bed for a nap.  Relaxing.  A quiet country.  

Dinner was local culture themed.  Delicious.  Attempt to have us use our fingers was only partially successful.  Polenta had me reaching for the fork.  Chicken on a stick was superb.  After-dinner entertainment was nicely amateurish.  Trip Leader Mado joined in one dance duet splendidly.

Thursday, Feb 6.  Routine day.  Early breakfast, drive, brunch, siesta (or walk), learn and discover (Botswana affairs and intricate basket weaving), second drive, dinner.  Stopped for tea and coffee.  “High tea” also.  The emphasis on tea is getting old.

A wealth of wildlife.  The highpoint was watching hundreds of zebras cross the river.  Deep enough to force the babies to swim.  Occasional fights among two or three zebras. Just incredible show.  Also encountered several testy elephants.  Truck’s battery died at one point (“This is when an elephant is supposed to charge!” Said I). We had to push start it.

No “cats”.  Saw a jackal from a distance.  Tomorrow we are promised a cat.  Every cat I’ve ever seen at zoos have in fact been boringly docile, so I’m hoping to see one, but not expecting fireworks.  (The lion we saw on day one yawned.)

Pulled out my photo printer and became much sought after by staff. Health is improving.

Wednesday, Feb 5.  Rhinos!  No more than 15 feet away at times.  Guards with ancient AK47s gave brief safety instructions, then showed us where they were. Six in total.  There are eight in the entire country.  If a rhino charged us, the guards weren’t there to shoot the rhino but to arrange our funeral.  Rhinos almost never stopped eating grass.  Gigantic, but how scary can an animal be that eats grass?

Transfer to Botswana. (Pronounced “Boat”, not “Bot”.) Crossed the Zambezi River as passengers in a motorboat, leaving our bus behind.  One-vehicle ferry boat, holding one truck at a time.  Hundreds and hundreds of trucks waiting to cross.  Weeks maybe.  Prostitutes. Bridge being built, which will revolutionize things. 

Observation: Zimbabwe walks.  Zambia rides bikes.  Botswana (thanks largely to diamonds, found after the UK surrendered the country to independence) drives cars.  Seemingly much more advanced country.  Shopping centers. 

Short remaining drive to lodge.  Entire staff turned out to sing.  Nice place, on the edge of a ravine, which provides frequent wildlife parades.  Shorter walk to room, a relief.  Excellent views.  Lodge serves pasta! I like this place.  Still, bugs own the world.  We’re just guests in it.

Rest, then drive along flat land, which later in the wet season becomes a wide river.  Some rain.  Massive lightning all over.  Incredible number of birds.  Eagle, storks, vultures, etc.  Huge number of vultures.  Something died somewhere.

Illness has been curbed by taking regular doses of Ibuprofen. Though we aren’t walking much at all, lots of exercise bouncing along the roads.