Thursday, June 30. Visited a woman who dyes wool, a job that began as a hobby and grew into a business. It’s always uplifting to spend time with someone who loves their work. She has a large garage with all the tools to dye wool and market her products. 16 hot plates, slowing blending the colors of various natural resources with wool. She seemed to enjoy explaining how in ancient times people would use urine as an acidic base. A real saleswoman too. Sells lots of accesories associated with her core business. Looks and acts a lot like Meryl Streep. I would have liked to buy something, but, as with many things Icelandic, it was all awfully expensive. 

OMG, another waterfall. Gullfoss. Very nice. The accompanying gift shop and cafe were nice too. Bought souvenirs. Then Geyser geyser, which is dormant, and Strokkur geyser, which is not. It erupts every five-seven minutes, sometimes with a small teaser eruption before the real one.  Unfortunately, I largely took poor photos.  

Thingvellir National Park has the original location of the world’s oldest Parliament. It’s also the site of the Atlantic Rift, which separates the North American Plate from Europe’s. The Rift is slowly expanding, so for a while we were not standing on any continent. We’re now on the North American side.

Arrived at the small town of Borgarnes, which is home to one of the first Icelandic settlements. Had an excellent dinner of cod. Some companions met me in the lobby for an evening taste of the port I purchased at the duty-free store. One day’s supply is left.

Anna is amazed at the total lack of wind so far. It’s why the flies are (still) bugging us.

Wednesday, June 29. Sun came out for most of the day. Warm. First stop was Seljalaandssfoss Waterfall, which can be walked behind. Yes, the backside of water. The entire drive was along a mostly green cliff face that had a variety of impressive waterfalls. They would have been individually stunning if they weren’t so common. 

Visited the Reynisfjara viewpoint at the southernmost point of land to see a jet-black beach, rock arches, and puffins. The puffin photos all seemed out of focus by just a little. Everything else was in focus. I have an unreasonable theory that their colorful beaks confused the camera’s processors.

Volcano Hotel for lunch, in Vik. A delicious version of salmon. The afternoon Climate Change discussion with Ingo wasn’t anything new. When 95% of a country’s power source is hydroelectric or geothermal, being green isn’t that hard. The story of Iceland’s continued whale hunting tradition was entertaining. The primary advocate is both rich and crazy.

“SuperJeep” Tour to the Kotlujokull Glacier. “Jeep” is a misnomer. A wildly decked out bus with huge wheels. Fantastic time walking over the glacier’s topsoil. The guide was extremely careful with his charges. Other groups had hard hats and ventured closer to the ice cliffs. Vodka with glacier ice. Dirtier ice than South America’s, but still fun. The glacier is retreating several hundred meters each year!

Stopped at another waterfall that was large but also of a pretty standard shape. Barely glanced at it. The remarkable has become common.

Dinner was a $25(!) bacon and onion ring burger at a food court. Great fries.

The countryside is so beautiful. Every farm or ranch looked like they’d just been painted. I wanted to just stop and stare so many times. Anna had obviously seen it all before, so she maintained a constant discussion of geography and history, while I was trying to soak up the views.

Tuesday, June 28. This was a slow day. Met other travelers. A lot of teachers. We did a little walkabout, including the local graveyard, where Anna, the Trip Leader, talked about the unusual naming traditions. The church was having a funeral, when they lower the flag to half mast during services. Anna was surprised when I said that churches in the USA don’t have flagpoles. Headstones have lots of bird figurines. The grounds are very well cared for.

Anna is a fun person. True to what I learned from my reading, Icelanders don’t spend much time in salutations. Anna doesn’t say hello or goodbye much. I like it.

Had another cup of hot chocolate at the bookstore. Lunch was pulled pork over fries with BBQ sauce. Dinner was a buffet where I could have had whale, but didn’t. Lively conversations with others about past trips.

Bugs continue to be a bother. Our proximity to the river is a factor. Anna says they won’t be as bad in other locations, which is a relief. I’m having to take multiple photos in hopes of getting one without bugs hogging the shot. Photos were few today. I am including some from yesterday.

I arrived a day before the official start. Customs was quick and easy with no vaccination check. Bought some wine at Duty Free since alcohol in Iceland is heavily taxed. The drive to our hotel in Selfoss was over mostly flat, treeless countryside covered in moss, with the ocean on one side and cliffs on the other. Extremely sparsely populated. Excellent roads. Speed cameras were in known locations, so the driver alternated between 90kph and 110 kph. 

The hotel sits alongside the only river we crossed, which I found surprising. Largest river in Iceland by flow rate. After a nice breakfast I wandered around the town in new hiking boats. They need some serious breaking in. I visited Bokakaffio book store/cafe and had a fantastic hot chocolate. Paid $7 to visit the Bobby Fischer Museum. Ate Iceland’s famous hot dog, with all the trimmings. A messy affair. I need to have another with fewer add-ons before passing judgement. 

After a little nap I took off on a 5km hike along the river. Many birds, a few orange rabbits. Millions of flies. In all my reviews of Iceland, the bugs were a barely mentioned nuisance. They don’t bite, but they are relentless. Stopping to look at the view at any time brought about a swarm. Across the river was a golf course with everyone dressed as though to ski. Beautiful snow-covered mountains in the distance beckoned.  

Had lamb shawarma for dinner, perhaps for the first time. As predicted, darkness did not arrive. Not as predicted, it was never cold, wet, or windy. 

After two years of postponements, I’m finally on the way to Iceland/Greenland. The flight “across” the Atlantic is impressively short. I’m now in Minneapolis, in what is certainly one of the nicest airports I can remember. The lounge I’m supposed to have access to is closed due to computer issues (unacceptable). But everything else is very new and clean. 

Tomorrow I arrive a day early, not to recover from jetlag but to make sure I get there in time. So many flight cancellations have me worried. But so far my fears are unfounded.

Two years ago I weighed 18 pounds less. I also didn’t have plantar fasciitis nor tendinitis. LIfe goes on. On the flip side, I didn’t yet qualify cataract surgery. But I’ve just gone through the procedure and the results are very satisfying, though my near vision hasn’t improved to my satisfaction yet (I bought the Cadillac version of the surgery). 

In preparation of the trip two years ago I began reading Burial Rites, based on an actual event but largely a fictitious accounting of the last person executed in Iceland in 1830 (a woman). I got halfway through before the trip was cancelled. This week I finished if. A sad story, but an apparently realistic description of Icelandic life back in the day. It’s soon supposed to come out as a movie with Jennifer Lawrence. Cool.

This map shows only a rough outline of the intinerary. It’s not a big country. We’re going far afield.