Monday, Jan 27. I depart today for Overseas Adventure Travel’s famous Ultimate Africa Tour. 14 days in the three countries surrounding Victoria Falls. Four separate glamping locations. (Glamour camping: toilets and showers in each tent.) I bought another camera, one level below professional grade. I’ve still got 190 pages to read in the manual. I also bought a guidebook for wildlife. 75% of the pages list birds. It’s the rainy season. Plush vegetation, which equates to difficulty seeing animals. But it’ll all be green. I’ve been told that each camp’s staff expect us to sing and dance. Well . . .

If time in transit is ignored, I won’t experience Tuesday. Two 11 hour flights with Heathrow in between. I’ll arrive in Johannesburg on Wednesday. Do a rush tour of the city and Soweto, mostly dedicated to apartheid history. The real tour formally begins on Thursday with a flight to the Falls and drive to Hwange National Park.

Very limited wifi. Stories, photos and video may be sporadic.

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Friday, Jan 17. (It’s my sister Natalie’s birthday, our reason for being here.)

Day began as the last two. A 40 minute drive to our first restroom stop, still in partial darkness. (No electricity; smartphone flashlights are wonderful). As we were driving out, our guide (Josh) spoke with a watcher who remarked that there seemed to be activity on the northern hill. We parked again and waited for more light. Noticed both coyote and wolf footprints, which was a great way to compare sizes. Saint Bernard versus beagle.

As light came we saw wolves making their way up the hill. Josh was able to identify the pack’s name and number. Through our scopes we followed their route. There was a lot of back and forth movement among the faster ones to stay together. Josh was unsure whether they were on the hunt or had just eaten, though he leaned towards the latter. After they passed over the hill we loaded up and moved to the other side of the hill and river to a promontory that had an ideal view.

It was marvelous. Besides a near two hour view of the wolves, saw an eagle, two huge ravens, and a coyote. Not to mention glorious vistas. Snow feel intermittently, but the temperature was never too cold. I got some adequate (amateur) videos, which I will have to use for a Youtube show someday.

Lunch was followed by a lecture about the collars they put on some wolves and how the wolves and packs are monitored. Some sobering thoughts about the very wolf-unfriendly neighbors of the Park. During the talk the wind picked up remarkably. Yoriko picked the worst time to use the restroom, which was about 50 yards away. Suffered a whiteout on her return, but made it back without any missed turns.

We passed on the afternoon snowshoe hike and just drove east. Found several snow-covered bison, a huge moose, and four mountain goats, two of whom were having a staring contest. Got a great photo of one on his rear legs. On our return towards the hotel stopped to look at the frozen outer layer of a waterfall.

Overall, it was an incredible day. The evening included a beer-pairing dinner which fell short of my satisfaction. There is a host of foods that just don’t go with beer.

Tomorrow we fly home. Expecting no excitement. My next post will be from Johannesburg, South Africa on Jan 29th. Out of the freezer and into the frying pan. Bison beef will give way to water buffalo. Wolves transforms into lions.

These are a great number of photos from Thursday and Friday. A video will come later this week.

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Thursday, Jan 16. (No photos. Wifi is not any good in the woods.). Not as cold, plus we’re a little more experienced. Another day of searching for animals. Wolf, Fox, coyote, mountain goat, elk, moose, and of course lots of bison. Bison were the stars. Blocking traffic, a dispute between bulls, crossing against the light, etc. Massive animals.

The tour guide is an expert on many subjects. Massively educational. Don’t know how much I’ll remember. HIs time management is a little lacking, but that’s a trivial problem. The post-lunch snowshoe hike was supposed to be “a little” more difficult than yesterday’s. I bailed at the first opportunity. Mostly uphill. Soft, soft powder. As the only person to bail though, I availed myself the bliss of walking alone in a silent, magical field of snow. The Sounds of Silence.

Dinner was great again, and this time paid for. Brought a 2013 bottle of Fess Parker’s Crockett, which was excellent. Lobster ravioli, French onion soup, Linguine with sausage, then desert. Huckleberry hot chocolate in the bar. Great day.

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Wednesday, Jan 15.  No idea how to dress for sub-freezing temperatures.  High stress. Departed at 6:30 for a 45 minute drive to our first stop, which became 75 minutes.  In search of wolves.  Got advice from one of the foremost experts on spotting wolves (I’d read one of his books), though we didn’t know it at the time.  He directed us to the best spot.  He pointed my spotter scope at the wolves in seconds.  We saw wolves playing around.  Just so cool.  About a mile away, but with spotting scopes they were close enough to watch.  Trouble was the cold.  First fingers, then toes.  Everything else was fine.  Guide estimated the temp at zero degrees.  My old frostbit digits agreed.

Also saw lots of bison, a mountain goat, coyote, etc.  Our tour guide/driver was full of knowledge. Really impressive.  My lunch choice was make-your-own PB&J from little containers.  The PB was frozen.  It was indoors, so no complaints.

Afternoon was an easy snowshoe hike up to the site of a wolvers’ den.  Several stops to talk about the history of wolves in Yellowstone.  I had already read about much of it, but nice to learn again.  Succeeded in not making an unintended snow angel, so no problems.  The cold was not as bad as in the morning.

Returned to Lodge.  Excellent gift shop.  Dinner was wild boar medallions.  Excellent, though $$$.  For the second night we had a server with no skills opening or pouring wine.  I wasn’t allowed to do it myself.  But on the plus side I wasn’t charged a corkage fee.

It was a beautiful, sunny day.  Incredible vistas.  But the cold was bothersome.  Camera would freeze up seconds after pulling it out of my pocket.  So few pictures.

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Tuesday, Jan 14.  This adventure involves hopefully sighting a few wolves in the dead of winter at Yellowstone National Park. We are here for three full days. We’ll certainly see other animals and be able to marvel at the gorgeous vistas within Yellowstone. The story of wolves here is a fascinating one. (I’ve done the reading.)

Early departure from John Wayne Airport.  Landed in Bozeman, greeted by quiet snow.  Beautiful airport.  Nice shops.  Sister Nat and Jim arrived.  No theatrics in our flights.  Marvelous.

Bus trip to Yellowstone Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel.  Very talkative driver (Jeff), who was a native of Pennsylvania until he happened by Yellowstone four years ago and fell in love with the place.  Saw mule deer and elk.  Check-in was slow, but in truth they had a lot to give us.  Vouchers, discount vouchers, gift certificate, bus token.  Oh, and room key.  Excellent room.  The hotel has plenty of old photos and a large wooden map of the USA.  I’ve got a lot to look at.

Dinner was fine, though we had to rush it to attend the introductory briefing.  Leader was brief.  There are 13 of us.  Tomorrow begins at 6:15.  Should be interesting.  Baby, it’ll be cold outside.

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It was a great time. So many fantastic views. We had incredible luck with the weather.

I created an iMovie show of the trip. My first attempt to blend photos and videos. It may be my last. Difficult. The gimbal device that held my iPhone steady during zodiac rides was very effective, as was the GoPro.

Future trips will be to Yellowstone in January (wolf watching), then sub-saharan Africa in February.

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Sunday, 10/27. Between visits to the two sides of the Iguazu Falls we spent a morning in a Guaraní village. Very primitive and happy to remain that way.

On a separate note, today was election day. Voting is mandatory, though there is no absentee voting allowed. If you’re not at home, you report to the local police office to register your absence. TV reporting is just as irritating here as in the USA.

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Monday, 10/28.  (This is out of order to report the Falls from Brazil and Argentina back-to-back.  Sunday’s report will follow.)

There is no way that I can adequately describe today’s wonder.  Photos will largely have to do.  (Videos might appear in the next week when home.) The morning began with an unforecast rain storm while we took a smallish train to the main falls.  The rain nicely stopped just as we arrived.  A mile walk to the edge. Walkway has undergone numerous rebuilds through the years due to flooding.  Amazing view.  Heavy mist at times rising up from far below.  Deafening noise.

A stroll along the numerous lessor falls followed.  Just incredible views.  Ran into host of entertaining animals.  A whole family of monkeys who moved so fast I failed to get a good picture. 

After lunch we climbed aboard a truck/bus for a long and rough ride to the river’s edge, where we went on a boat ride to the falls.  We got soaked.  One of the most fun experiences I’ve ever had.  Words can’t do it justice.  I used a GoPro and the video results were much better than I expected.  Everyone enjoyed watching themselves.

As predicted, the Argentina side of the falls is better than Brazil’s. 

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Saturday, 10/26. Flight to Iguassu, Argentina. Drove across to Brazil. Two separate border checkpoints, one to leave Argentina, another to enter Brazil. With a bus change. Lunch was essentially boysenberry ice cream, due to my not listening too closely to the options.

Saw a toucan in the wild. Looked just like a Disney animatronic. Amazing how nature can reproduce man-made. Lots of other animals appeared.

The Brazilian side is considered the lessor of the two sides, but it was awesome. The main falls (Devil’s Throat) is in the distance, but all the secondary falls are impressive. Big crowd. The walkway into the mist is fun. Martin explained that there are times in the year when there isn’t much water, so construction isn’t that hard.

Hotel is fine, with an excellent terrance bar on top, giving a view of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Dinner was chicken, which was (I think) a first for the trip. Chocolate ice cream on top of fruit cocktail. Didn’t work.

Lots of photos.

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Friday, 10/25. Tour of the city’s primary cemetery. Now it’s the other one in the city. Eva Peron, the most famous (and controversial) woman of Argentina is buried here, though her travels in death was long and cumbersome. Someone wrote a book about it. Her resting place is next to the father who disavowed her, in the part of the city that reviled her. “Rest in Peace” is problematic.

Exited the city to the delta area. Very surprising, as Martin expected. Hundreds of islands connected only by boat. None have cars, though all have electricity. Fascinating. A suburban Venice. Many dismal houses alongside beautiful homes. Schools, churches, resorts. “School boats”. Mail delivered by boat, house by house. A floating hospital. It was all a big surprise, being not 30 minutes from the city.

Those flying home today were impacted by weather situations in the States. All did get out though. I choose to stay in my room this afternoon/evening to cleanse my mind of two weeks with people. Tomorrow there will only be 8 of us. Better. (To be fair, I think this group, though larger than any other tour, was the best of my seven OAT excursions.)

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