September 2021

On this last day of the cruise I decided to travel without my camera. Photos of Porto can be found on this blog from our 2019 visit.

We had been scheduled to do a Sardine Factory tour, but discovered last night that it had been canceled because the factory was closed due to Covid. Corporate’s computer system didn’t seem to know about the cancelation, and the ship didn’t seem to know that we were booked on it. We decided to not go on the alternative included Excursion, which we’d done before. So we just walked around town, hitting just about all the spots that the tour hit, but at our own pace. It’s a beautiful city.

In the afternoon we toured Ferreira Winery, no more than fifty yards away from the ship. Incredible building. It roofed over what had been exterior alleys and the surrounding storage buildings. Climbing the sloping pathway with thick stone walls on both sides and a ceiling overhead was a surreal experience. There is a lot of history in the winery, dominated by perhaps the most famous woman of Porto, Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira. A large number of old documents were on display. The main floor was made up of oat barrel remnants, having something to do with flooding which is not uncommon. The tasting was very nice, including a delicious grape jelly for the bread. Bought a bottle of their port and a jar of their jelly.

In the evening we did a very similar, but more exhaustive tour of Graham’s Winery, followed by a tasting and dinner. Fantastic time. Filet Mignon melted in my mouth. A great way to end the cruise.

Here are photos of some of the crew and tour guides.

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Last day on the river. Took an excursion up one of the side valleys to a Cistercians Monastery. First stop was an old Roman bridge with a nice looking tower. I suspect it was a rebuilt bridge, as there were no wheel depressions in the stones. Pretty village. We then visited the Monastery’s Chapel, which seemed a bit ostentatious for being used by just monks. “Where is the people’s church?” The area was controlled by the order and people were recruited to move there to give the monks more standing with Rome. The tour guide did a great job glossing over what seemed to me a less than stellar history. Our last stop was a very old house, now used to showcase the region’s wine. Beautiful, large interior. Good wine. This was perhaps the first time we were actually seated socially distanced from one another, which felt a little weird.

We returned to the ship at noon and began our last cruise into Porto. The vineyards grew more scarce and people more common. There were a lot recreational activities. Our last lock was great fun as the captain let us stay on the sun deck even though a bridge came within touching distance. We also were allowed to visit the pilot house, where the captain answer any and all questions. I asked if Portuguese or English was the common language for ship to ship communications and he immediately called out on the radio in English if anyone was there. Quickly answered. But he said either language was okay. Asked about a speed limit; “Whatever is prudent and reasonable.”

We arrived in Porto at about 7. Went ashore for a stroll and mingled with the crowd. Masks were the rule rather than the exception. Sadly, we had eaten dinner on board (Chateaubriand! Incredible!), so we had to pass up various food stalls.

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Great day, too many photos. Visited the community of Favaios, which is essentially a cooperative. One style of famous bread, cooked by ten separate bakers, and one wine label, bottled in one winery. Four Corners bread. Our baker is literally famous, not only for her bread but also because she was a friend of the last Portuguese dictator, many decades ago. Always a big smile (though I heard a local ask “Was she in a good mood today?”), I gave her a photo I took two years ago and, Covid or not, she gave me a big hug. Bread was hot and delicious. The town museum/marketing outpost provided a good primer for how the bread and wine is made. The winery produces a style of fortified wine that is popular as an ingredient for a cocktail. One option is to add it to beer, which I tasted and wholeheartedly do not recommend. They bottle the wine in miniatures, which allows them to say they produce an impressive number of bottles.

(I wore a t-shirt I’d bought there two years ago, which was noticed by all the various tour guides. My prize for marketing their name was two (small) bottles of Favaios wine.)

After the tours came lunch. Accordion music, beautiful views, great food, and a real character of a host. They call him the town’s Mr. Bean, and he plays the role with great gusto. I don’t know if I’ll ever hear the words “Oh! My God!” again without thinking of him. The food was excellent.

We returned to the ship with plenty of time left for a leisurely cruise downriver. Many great views. I took photos of the many, many billboards proclaiming vineyards and wineries. Overall, a great day.

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Yoriko and I had planned to skip this excursion and stay on or near the ship. But the ship moored away from any sites (interesting or otherwise) so along we went. The bus ride for me was just as sleep-inducing as it had been two years ago. Yoriko found some nice souvenirs at our “Comfort Stop”.

Our friends really enjoyed the city. Our tour guide did point out some spots that we hadn’t seen before, so it was a more pleasurable day than last time. An art museum (no photos) and Roman bridge. The “Cafe Break” in a hotel conference room at the end of the tour was still terribly disappointing compared to the many cafes dotting the streets.

In the evening the ship had a Music Trivia contest. Our friends chose to skip it, so it was just Yoriko and I. I named our team “Kenichi’s Crew”. At the last minute a couple came in and joined us. Against all expectations, we won! Part of the answers required participation, wherein Yoriko danced to “YMCA.”

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