Monday, 10/14. Flight to Ushuaia. Passed a shantytown. Like a scene from a Ruined Earth movie. Very sad. Mostly immigrants.

Oddly, the temp in Buenos Aires this morning was the same as Ushuaia, 3,000 kms south. At the airport we passed a statue of Columbus (a gift from Italy). Argentines keep moving it around, swapping it out for a more famous person. Argentina also celebrates Columbus Day, but they too are finding something else to call it.

Slept through most of the 3.5 hour flight. (Argentina, turned 90 degrees, would reach from San Francisco to New York.) Descended through clouds. Then magic. The view of the Magellan Strait was magnificent. Crystal clear air. Blindingly white snow, dark ground, blue seas and skies. Worth the trip.

The town of Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world. Or, “THE SOUTHERNMOST CITY IN THE WORLD!” They don’t want you to forget it. It’s exploded in size in the past two decades as government has made the region a tax-free zone for manufacturing. From 8,000 to 80,000. It shows a little, but the mountains are still spectacular. For lunch I had Beef and Chips. The cool thing was they didn’t ask how I wanted the beef. I’ve noticed in both Brazil and Argentina that they assume you want it medium rare, how God meant it to be. Homemade chips. I added sparkling wine, because, duh. Total cost, about $15.

There’s one main street. Most shops are interesting. Erred by entering a chocolate shop. The box I bought is a weight on my mind. I’m clearly an outlier because most people had winter coats, scarves, gloves, etc. and I had a short sleeve shirt and long sleeve wool shirt. Got my shopping done. The city has a bundle of monuments and memorials. Many are about the Argentines’ Antarctic explorers.

All 21 of us attended a home hosted dinner. Big house, wonderful family, who were friends with our Trip Leader. I made some balloons, printed some photos. Avoided situations that brought on my anxieties. Everyone had a great time. Evening sunset was phenomenal.

May be last post for five days. Boarding a ship tomorrow evening that prides itself in having no connectivity.

  • Just breathtaking.
  • How they cook lamb. 6 hours. There was a dog outside watching.
  • Lunch. A top ten meal.
  • Another reminder that grandmothers will continue to search for the 30,000 missing.
  • The battle for the Falklands (what they call Malvinas), isn’t over.
  • This is a valid example of the city’s architecture before it grew.
  • Very nice memorial of a ship obviously lost at sea.
  • Interesting monument. Not sure why it’s there.
  • From left, grandmother, daughter, mother, companions.
  • The is just what it looked like.
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Sunday, 10/13. Clear skies. Walking/bus tour of the city. Martin, our Trip Leader, stopped frequently to share history. Pointed out the cathedral Pope Francis was in charge of. Flame honoring the Unknown Soldier. Saw the presidential HQ, not lived in. President has a nine square block residence 20km away. At a cafe listened to a filmmaker who documented an interview with his grandfather who played a role in their “Dirty War” of the 1970s. 30,000 people disappeared. Interesting. The work to identify bodies has made Argentines world renowned for the skillset.

Visited the Boca section, an odd place. Walked back through a massive 10 block market. Had a late lunch of breaded steak. Excellent.

Home hosted dinner was very interested. Two sisters, who had three other sisters. Terrific hosts, sharing lots of useful story.

  • Our Trip Leader with wife and son, plus one group companion.
  • Street art is back! Strangely missing in Brazil.
  • The balcony used by Eva Peron to speak to the people. Madonna acted the part on the same balcony. Locals displeased by that.
  • I’m not sure. Bored wait staff?
  • Boca district. Lots of statues. Lots of shops.
  • Catsup packs for my fries. WIth a helpful pair of scissors.
  • Home hosted dinner. Hosts are the two on the left, standing.
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Saturday, 10/12.  Ordered an Uber at 4 AM.  First response was “nothing available”.  Bit of fear.  But seconds later a ride popped up.  Good, fast, red-light ignoring ride to the airport.

Flight arrived in Buenos Aires at 10:08.  We deplaned at 2:25. That’s not a typo.  There was a deluge earlier in the day that closed the airport for departures.  My flight was the last to arrive.  Others were diverted. Before the normal passengers deplaned we were visited by an ambulance, then two police cars.  One passenger apparently felt the airline was working against him personally.  Arrived at hotel at 4:15.  Thankfully I’d only flown from Rio. Others on the trip had 10+ hour flights before the wait times.

At hotel we got the Standard briefing (“Get along, accept changes, be on time”). The Trip Leader added his personal touch.  I skipped the tango lessons to change cloths and prepare a laundry bag.  Intro tour of the area. Great Italian dinner with excellent wine.  So far my tour companions seem excellent. They tolerant me, which is the best I can hope for.

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Friday, 10/11. There was almost a sunrise. But the sun didn’t appear until about 8. I’d realized that today is probably my last chance to sleep in for a while, so I did. Left at about 11.

The beach was busy, on a Friday! (Jumping ahead, it’s now 9 PM and there is a band playing. Good time to have a deaf ear.) I did a slow walk until 4. Visited Fort Copacabana, which has a fine army museum. Gorgeous view of the beach. Nicely placed cafe along the coastline.

Ipanema Beach is obviously newer and better arranged. Had a snack at a very nice beachfront cafe. The Cop’s aren’t as fancy.

There aren’t any cigarette butts around, but there are certainly a lot of butts in view. As advertised. Pick-up soccer ball bouncing circles are common too. I thought they were groups of friends, but realized that anyone walking down the beach could join in. (I Did Not Know: Three of the four football teams in Rio are also rowing clubs. I bought a “Clube de Regatas do Flamengo” cap.)

Allowed a guy to “shine” my rubber beach sandals. Persistent, and he spoke English. I had too much cash anyway. Even paid the musicians.

I’m glad I got one day of sunny weather here. It’s a different city with the sun out. I need an Uber at 4 AM. I’ve asked if that’s a problem and the reaction is “why would it be a problem?”.

  • Sugarloaf’s peak is ruined by the cablecar station.
  • The cablecar is very large. 11,000 lb capacity.
  • Excellent! The burger I had for supper was not so good.
  • One of two musician statues. The Beach is famous for concerts.
  • A replica of the Patron saint of Bolivia. The original is in Copacabana, Bolivia.
  • World War II vintage.
  • The point between beaches.
  • Ipanema Beach.
  • Farewell Rio!
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Thursday, 10/10. Full day tour. 20 people from various countries. Spanish and English. First was Christ the Redeemer statue. Just as we arrived at the final climb, the skies opened up. It stopped just as we were getting back on the bus. I noticed that it’s big. Beyond that, no impression.

The football stadium. Apparently, if you’re a big football fan, this stadium means a lot. There were several people visibly thrilled to get photos of the entrance, holding faux World Cup trophies. The carnival parade site. It’s a dedicated 1 km stretch with stands on both sides. Another huge deal that I couldn’t appreciate. The production of being a team in the parade is impressive. The Rose Parade it is not. The same steps I saw yesterday. I walked around the lower shopping area. The cathedral I saw yesterday. This time we entered. It is very very pretty. If only they could have made the outside less pedestrian.

Lunch. Fantastic. Salad buffet, then you sit while servers bring out a variety of meats on skewers. They slide pieces onto your plate or slice chunks off. So many carving knives flying around gave me pause. But it was all very good.

Sugarloaf Mountain. Look it up in Google, because I have no photos of it or its surroundings. Low clouds. The cable ways were fast. At some point the cable car just disappears into the clouds.

Not a spectacular day. Tomorrow it’s supposed to be mostly clear. I’m planning to walk the beach extensive, but my feet are pretty sore from the sidewalks. They are mostly made of broken tile pieces, meaning they aren’t smooth. But I’ll see.

  • Standard view.
  • Reflected in the rain.
  • People dress up in carnival outfits.
  • The parade route. Serious judging. There’s even a time goal for running the course.
  • Inside the upside down bucket.
  • Looking straight up.
  • The knife work is scary.
  • An automated popcorn machine! I want one.
  • The view on top of Sugarloaf Mountain.
  • Copacabana Palace (Hotel). The first hotel on the Beach (1923).
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Wednesday, 10/9.  Steady Rain, with a few gaps.  4 hour walking tour with one other.  Excellent tour guide from Intrepid Urban Adventures.  Couldn’t stop the rain though.  Who can?  Subway is better than some.  Lines 1, 2, and 4.  Line 3 is an urban legend.  Center city would have been pretty except for the rain.  Opera House was beautiful even in the rain.  Old Tram to the top of one hill.  View at the top would have been nice except for, well, you know.  Artist studio/gift shop was excellent, though I feared dripping on the items. Another gift shop. There is style here that uniquely Brazilian. I liked it. (I am continuing to detect little English, but not the “attitude” that one senses in France. They just don’t learn it. That’s fine. But now that there is no $450 visa fee(!), they may start seeing more Americans.)

Tiny monkeys with long tails.  (No birds; odd.)  Snack of cheese bread and semi-solid fruit juice.  Famous Selaron Steps, covered with tiles from around the world, is an impressive example of international unity. Hanshin Tigers have a tile, to illustrate how diverse the tiles are.

Returned to the Beach, had lunch of beef shish kabob and a glass of Caipirinha, made with their national whisky, Cachaça.  Fruit additive is your choice. I had passion fruit. Returned to the room early to dry out.  Stayed.  No great interest in the nightlife.  Beach cafes are still open after 10.

I was soaked for most of the day. My waterproof cork hat isn’t. My waterproof Columbia jacket also isn’t much. But my wetness might have been from sweat, though it wasn’t too hot. Today in the moment was less than wonderful, but in memory it’ll be excellent. Tomorrow I go on an 8 hour tour. On a bus thankfully. (As I type this, it’s pouring. Sigh.)

  • The beach at night.
  • The beach in the rain.
  • Subway has a genuine subterranean look.
  • Tram. Note the building on the right.
  • The building is a cathedral. I’m told it’s beautiful inside. Lots of stained glass.
  • Tiny monkeys. Looks like rats from the rear.
  • Here it is. A photo of me. I’m done for this adventure. The steps in back.
  • Tour guide and tour companion, from Poland. Her English put me to shame.
  • The steps’ creator. Begun in only 1990. A touch crazy, but in a good way.
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Monday/Tuesday, 10/7/8. On Monday I drove down to George Washington’s Grist Mill and Distillery.  Nice easy tour.  Wouldn’t buy the product though.  “Making it like the father of our country used to” is not advised.  They have low production and high demand, so the price is excessive if your intent is to drink it.  If your only goal is to stick in on a mantlepiece, then it’s a fine souvenir.

Lunch with old co-workers.  We’re all getting old together.

  • My room is halfway up.

I paid for a fancy credit card which gets me into many airport lounges.  How the 20(?) percenters live.  Free food and drinks, comfortable chairs.

I’ve long considered Boeing 767 to be the worst plane.  Flight to Rio de Janeiro confirmed my opinion.  I did my civic duty and traded my empty three seat row with an empty two-row.  Family of four, one a crier, all got to sit in the same row.  Even with an empty seat, the plane stinks.  Five inch screen?

I don’t know if I’ve ever walked further to get out of an airport.  Uber was fine.  Hawkers on the highway.  Driver actually bought a bag of puffed rice from one.  We weren’t moving much anyway.  Surprisingly few Japanese cars.  Good number of Chevys and Fords. I think I saw an Olympic venue falling apart. The velodrome? Now a shanty town or farmers market.

Airbnb’s view superb.  But today was muggy, cloudy, windy.  Huge waves.  Had a beachside snack.  Not third-world cheap. Massive beach.  I was just wandering waiting for the Airbnb to be ready.  Overdressed.  No one mugged me, so that’s a plus.  Haven’t found a single person outside the airport who speaks English.

  • Windy. Big slope down. Wasn’t wearing the proper footwear. Maybe tomorrow.
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Sunday, 10/6.  On the road again.  The Blog continues.  As a reminder (to myself), I maintain this blog as more of a ship’s log than a beautiful essay on world travels.  Sentences may not be complete, flowery language may be missing.  Hopefully the photos will show what the prose does not tell.

I’m writing this from a hotel room in Annapolis.  There was a convenient juxtaposition between a Naval Academy mini-reunion (43 years) and my trip.  Met old friends and their better halves. Watched an incredible football game.  Spent far too much money on far too much food and wine.

Four days in Rio de Janeiro on my own, then an 18 day Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) tour of Patagonia, beginning with Bueno Aires.  An extension will take some of us to Iguazu Falls, a competitor of Victoria Falls in size and beauty.  The base tour includes a four day cruise in and around Tierra del Fuego (Cape Horn, Strait of Magellan, etc.) with twice daily zodiac rides to shore.  OAT warns to distraction the varied weather we may have.  I’ve got layers of cloths and thick skin.  Our Trip Leader has already communicated twice by email and once on the phone.

Patagonia is well known not only for it’s variety of nature but also the diversity of humanity.  Natives (rare), German, Spanish (Basque), British, even Italian.  They brought their culture and it all meshes sloppily (I’m told).  Nature, though, is the prime purpose of the tour. I’m sure we’ll gain more reasons to believe that the earth is warming. Adding to the excitement is Argentina’s political problems and collapsing economy.  I look forward to it all.

It all begins Tuesday morning on Copacabana Beach, which is now playing second fiddle as an attraction to nearby Ipanema Beach.  Every web site warns of the dangers of Rio.  I’ve got a day and a half of [protected] tours.  Otherwise I’ll be on the beach, where danger is less than elsewhere.

  • 43 years ago these were the Navy/Marine Corps’ future. Desperate times.
  • The new future, from a new present. Stood throughout the game. Who are these guys?
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Saturday, 6/8 (bleeding into Sunday). No photos. Flight to Cairo. Delayed at Cairo Airport waiting for our police car escort. Visited Old Cairo, or Historic Cairo, or Islamic Cairo, take your pick. Toured two Coptic churches and one synagogue. I honestly wasn’t interested. Lunch was at a restaurant in one of the older markets. Spent time wandering the old market. Arrived at our hotel for a little rest. Farewell dinner was in a very pretty restaurant across a very busy street from the hotel (there are no crosswalks). Ate salmon. Farewells. Back to hotel for a few hours, then took a taxi to the airport. The driver complemented me on my ability to sleep in the car. Said most Americans are too terrified of the driving.

Flight to Moscow was extremely hot. Torture. Moscow Airport is surprising modern. Flight to LA was just fine.

Evaluation: It was unseasonably hot, which nicely kept the crowds away, but its constancy became a mental drag. Egyptians have embraced the “If the minimum wasn’t good enough, it wouldn’t be the minimum” concept. Streets are littered with trash. Driving is unregulated. Street hawkers were as common as pigeons, though more irritating. Police and army looked demoralized and worrisomely inattentive. The citizens we met were wonderfully cheerful, but clearly resigned to living without any government support. (The Nile River had NO navigation aids.) It’s a mystery where the (not insignificant) entry fees to all the ruins go. But the ruins were all fascinating and certainly worth the trip. Even though I’ve lived with pictures and stories of the pyramids, they were still awesome.

Next adventure is in October. Destination: Rio de Janeiro, Argentina, Chile.

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Friday, 6/7. Departure for the balloon ride was 3:30. Boat across the Nile. Oddly, the nearest bridge is many miles north of Luxor. Revenue for ferries? Quick trip to the lift-off point. 8 balloons? Smooth ride. Captain was excellent pilot and tour guide. We rose, fell, rose again, to tour different vistas. Unfortunately, though the views were great, it was still too dark for good photos. Landing was exceptionally smooth. First recovery crew member arrived on a donkey. Overall, it was well worth the money and time.

After return to hotel and breakfast, departed for the Valley of the Kings. By boat again. First stop was, a huge temple built by the only Queen of Egypt, Hatshepsut. Lots of historical intrigue on how she became Queen and how future rulers tried to hide her existence. The temple has been largely rebuilt out of its ruins. It is very large, but after our visit to the Valley of the Kings, it shrank in our memories.

The Valley is actually on the opposite side of the mountain holding Hatshepsut’s temple. A 15 minute ride to the entrance, then a five minute tram shuttle. The area is much more compact and less glamorous than I expected. Could have been any simple box canyon. King Tut’s tomb is literally under another’s, which helped hide it. Visited five tombs, including Tut’s. Tut, having died young and unexpectedly, had far and away the simplest tomb. Indeed, it was originally meant for another purpose. Turns out that once a king dies, his servants have only 70 days to entomb him. Most tombs are in fact unfinished. The one completed tomb that we visited, holding two kings, was splendid. All were impressive. No cameras are allowed in Tut’s tomb, which is being carefully maintained. Has its own weather station to monitor atmospheric conditions.

Stopped by the house of the founder of Tut, Howard Carter. It’s a museum. Lunch in town. Dinner near hotel. Stuffed pigeon. I’m ready to head home. One more day.

  • JAR. Just Another Ruin. Lights identify tombs of lords, not kings. Kings are on the other side of the mountain.
  • Our hotel is upper left.
  • Hatshepsut’s Temple below right.
  • Can’t exist in eternity without music.
  • This photo shows the entrances to five tombs.
  • The only good pigeon is . . . . well, there are no good pigeons. Even when dead.
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