Friday, May 20th.  Cold!!  I planned for cold, but I didn’t plan on my age making cold weather more uncomfortable.  Departed at 7:30, the earliest start time of the trip.  Partially due to the bike’s heated seat.

Had breakfast at a heliskiing resort.  Can’t imagine what staying there would cost.  The young Paris-born waitress talked to me throughout the meal.  Her dreams come true!  The world is controlled by a hidden organization. Conspiracies are in themselves conspiracies.  Spoke in a whisper.  I had the image of Twin Peaks in my head.  I was very relieved when the bike started up.

Route 37 becomes absolutely gorgeous.  Seriously, it makes the Blue Ridge Parkway look pedestrian.  Trees, sweet smelling flowers, rivers, lakes, mountains, snow, and no traffic.  Nine vehicles went past in the first 60 miles.  And three more bears.

Took a beautiful detour 40 miles down 37A to a small town called Stewart.  Past Stewart I reentered Alaska, in the little town of Hyder.  No bank, gas station, police, fire department, or US customs office.  It does have a Post Office. In fact it’s called Hyder rather that it’s desired name of Portland because the USPS rejected that name: “too many towns in the US are called Portland.”  This is the only town in the lower part of Alaska accessible by road, and it was only built in the 70s.  Now there are twice weekly seaplane flights to deliver the mail.  They do have two bars where it’s popular to be “Hyderized”.  Drink a shot of 151 proof whiskey.  I resisted the urge.

It also has a National Forest, managed oddly enough by the Department of Agriculture.  It has a viewing platform where one can supposedly see black and brown bears.  A drive up a gravel road is required.  I was tired of gravel roads, so I gave it a pass.

Made it to the end of Route 37 and headed east on 16.  Warm and sunny.  In Hazelton I booked a room in the farther town of Burns Lake, 130 miles east.  Suddenly the temp dropped and clouds formed.  The temp went from 73 to 45, with rain!!  Not a fun ride.  But I made it.  Stopped in Houston long enough to take a picture of the world’s largest fly fishing rod.