Tues, 4/17. Drove into the “country” to visit a “village”, passing a long park between lanes where various persons practiced Tai Chi, one with a big sword.  Drove down a four lane road crowded with buildings, turned right for a minute and suddenly we were in the village.  A high rise apartment towers over you not 100 yards away.  But it has it’s own pretty welcome gate.  We get a minor welcome from gaily dressed town folk beating drums and playing pipes.  Just too odd.  The village is famous for art, including paper cutting art, which we dabbled in.

We spent most of the day buying veggies, then helping to prepare lunch and eating said lunch, followed by a Q&A.  We’d split into two groups to visit two families. Buying the food was a challenge because Jacky thought it would be fun to give us the Chinese names of what we should buy, without the English.  Jacky likes games.  Cooking was okay.  The main dish was fried gyoza that tasted exactly like home.  The combined Q&A was interesting.  The other group visited a family who were proud Party members.  Our group never even talked about it.  The Party host was very pushy, which I considered both probably stereotypical and disturbing.

After returning to the hotel I again passed on dinner and went for an evening walk.  Began with a short subway ride, which was simplicity itself.  Machines had an “English” button.  The city is laid out in a rigid N-S, E-W pattern, which makes navigation easy.  I walked back.  Beautiful lights.  I passed at least eight groups of ad hoc dancers.  Videos below of the two strangest ones.  Mind you, this is a Tuesday.

Power lines ruin so many photos.

Noodles out to dry.

The old village, vacated in 1996. The new village’s homes seem built to be B&Bs. Many bedrooms, oversized kitchen.

Pepper spice production, old style. Not allowed until recently (too entrepreneurial).

I waited an hour for the lights on the dragon to go on. No luck.

Mon, 4/16.  China turned the site where the Terra-cotta Army was discovered into a Museum while also being a very active archeological dig.  Big crowd, gardens, guards, tour buses.  I’d expected pushy people since the moment I landed in China, but happily it wasn’t a thing elsewhere.  The pushy people arrived here.  Standing in line meant nothing.  When I (a foreigner) pushed back, I got these amazed looks.  Too bad.

Suffice to say it was awesome, though I’m not sure which was more amazing: The 8,000 statues or that they could have been lost in time for 2,200 years.  After the discovery scholars went back over history and noted rumors and legends written of buried things.  No one took them seriously.  The enabling emperor’s burial site, just a kilometer away, had been assumed all along, but left untouched.  It’s still untouched, awaiting better technology and preparation.  The Terra-cotta Army had been nicely painted, but exposure to dry air flaked off the paint in minutes.  They don’t want that to happen again.

Broken statues are being meticulously put back together.  They’ve got thousands in one piece.  Begs the question why they need to fix them all.  I guess it’s like the drive to finish a jigsaw puzzle.

After lunch (there was a guy making noodles from scratch) we visited a school, which the tour group seeks donations to support.  (Though I’ve donated to the cause for the previous two tours (Mongolia and Morocco), I’m not about to donate to a Chinese institution.  I’ll let our trade surplus take care of it.)  Jacky had us play games with them.  I did not gain any insight into the Chinese education system.  Kids are kids around the world.  Fun I guess, but not useful.

Skipped dinner.  The food is too good.

I’d have a hard time concentrating with 50,000 tourists looking on.

Note the crowd in the distance. Twice the size of a football field.

This is a half-size replica, found in 3,000 pieces. Put back together. Gold, silver and brass parts.

The Commanding General. Tour guide says it’s obvious because he’s rotund.  Hands were resting on a decayed sword.

Incredibly good representation for photos. I couldn’t tell where the statues ended and background painting began.

Sun, 4/15.  Visited Little Wild Goose Pagoda.  (The Big Wild Goose Pagoda is only a few mails away.)  Before we got the lecture, Tai Chi lesson.  Fun.  The master had one complex routine for us to learn rather than several simple ones.  After about seven run-throughs I think we got the hang of it, but I couldn’t do it now.  I would have preferred more simple routines to remember.

After touring the gardens and watching people ring the bell for luck, we had a calligraphy class.  The teacher was excellent.  Everyone enjoyed learning how Chinese characters make sense when broken down into component parts.

After lunch we visited the City Wall.  I inadvertently staged a partial mutiny by asking Jacky if I could leave the tour to just walk around the City on the Wall.  Six others joined me.  It ended up that only four went to the next stop, a Jade Factory.  Three of the mutineers bailed after a walking a quarter of the wall, two speed-walked (fitness buffs) around the intended three-quarters of the wall.  One stayed with me for a more sedate slow walk.  She was unsure of finding her way back I think.  About 7 miles total.  It was an illuminating experience.  China has a lot of exercise stations in parks for adults.  Not so many playgrounds.

In the evening we had dinner and a show.  Dinner was all about dumplings.  Beef, pork, fish, duck, veggie dumplings.  Delicious, but they were all steamed, not grilled.  The show was poor.  Canned music, cheap sets, unenthusiastic performers.  Not at all what I expected from China.  We’re going to have more opportunities to see performances on the trip.  I hope they improve.

After the group exercise, we posed for photos. My picture was lost in translation.

Little Wild Goose Pagoda. The lightning rod takes away from its grandeur.

There was some king of “Young Citizens” event in the park. Children giving really long speeches. A catholic priest presided.

China is too much about luck.

The Wall is very impressive. And long. Of course, one traitor opening one door ruins the whole concept.

(Picture-free day!  I was forgetting to look at things for my own self.  Need to reset my priorities.)

Sat, 4/14 (Any number with a four in it is unlucky).  Trip to Beijing Airport was only 20 minutes.  Incredible.  Incredibly early.  Flight was fine.  Good lunch.

Bus was in a tiny accident, which brought out a traffic cop in a very short time.  Gestures, anger, etc.  Jacky said our driver was deemed in the right, though I’m not sure that’s true.

Xian is an ancient capital city.  Best remaining feudal wall surrounds the city center.  Home to the terra-cotta soldiers (Monday tour).  Had dinner in the islamic quarter.  They make cubes from reformulated potatoes somehow.  Translucent.  I got to like it.  Insanely crowded streets (Saturday).  Lots of kids on dates, which was non-existent in Morocco.  Extremely strange food.  A whole crab, fried.  Do they eat the shell?  Meat on a stick is everywhere.

We’re in a Ramada Hotel.  Nice, but the bathroom is laid out in a very weird way.  Maybe I’ll take a picture tomorrow.

Fri, 4/13 (No worries. 13 is a lucky number in China.)  Cool, drizzles, and low clouds.  Bound to happen.  There are sights that are anticlimactic after all the hype.  The Great Wall isn’t one of them.  Huge and long.  Our tour took us to a lessor known and much lessor visited section of the Wall.  Though it was walkable, apparently the more popular section is rebuilt to unrealistic newness.  We shared the Wall with maybe six others.  I loved it.  Very high steps, similar to the Grand Canyon’s mule steps, but much steeper. Marvelous views, even with the clouds.  Each bastion had a camera mounted which barely spoiled the effect.  Bought a t-shirt.

Next was a family hosted lunch.  Excellent food.  Our single host was the wife (husband at work).  She was very frank and answered most of our questions.  She and half her town are having negotiations with officials for relocation due to a highway being built in anticipation of the 2022 Winter Olympics.  (A high speed train is also being built.)  The town is holding out to move all inhabitants to a new place (probably a high-rise), rather than just half.  Tight community.  At the moment she farms about 100 apricot trees nearby.  Husband is a carpenter, son a policeman.  Not a bad house.

Drove through the Olympic grounds.  Too cloudy for good pictures.

During free time I discovered a craft beer hall.  Panda Brew.  Had a Wit-beer.

Members of the tour plus our family host. I printed this picture for her on my portable printer. Nice.

Police car. Might be fast enough to chase down a speeding wheel chair. Maybe.

What are these?

They showed a video of a Finnish brewery, with whom they share techniques.

Thurs, 4/12. Unloaded at the south end of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. 3 1/2 hours later, we exited at the north end. The square is pronounced “T-a-men”. Security was thin. Cleanup crews were many, riding around on three wheeled scooters. Large monument to those who died in the “struggle” stands before Mao’s Tomb, with school children guarding. The Forbidden City is like a pregame show. Gate after gate after gate before the main attraction. By the time I reached the chief building it all seemed more over-the-top than impressive. But the place is so huge, it stuns the senses. Various residential areas.  There don’t seem to be any gardens in the traditional sense. Rock statues. No sign of kitchens or baths. Curious.  The buildings’ trims were beautifully painted or dulled by age.  I have this image of an old man repainting everything, then his son repainting it all again, followed by his son.  It’s that large.

After a lunch of noodles with an abundance of optional add-ons (a welcome change). We visited a pair of “towers”: Drum and Bell. We climbed the very steep steps of the bell tower. Truly impressive sized bell, the largest in China the sign said. Then another tea demonstration/sales pitch. Following this there was a “rickshaw” ride around the local community, which I passed on. It seemed too much like a cliche and there are pedicabs in San Diego. I just walked, stopping at a tiny fresh air bar run by two young girls. Had a tequila infused beer from the Netherlands. One girl spoke a little English, but said she’d lived in France for six years.

The community had a central park with exercise stations and gaming tables. Mahjong game with surreptitious gambling going on.  Everyone seemed to know each other. Restful.

Dinner was noodles again with beef and chicken. Excellent. Spring rolls with nothing but beef and shrimp inside. Bland.  A kind of tapioca pudding.  Not for me.

There is a water show in front of the Forbidden City.

Dress up concession. Cute little girl.

Bartenders of a six-stool bar.

Wed, 4/11. Gorgeous day.  After the traditional “Don’t Drink The Water, etc.” briefing, we went by bus to the Summer Palace.  The city is much lower to the ground than Shanghai.  Not nearly as pretty.  But the much feared smog was non-existant.  The Summer Palace is on the side of a very large man-made lake.  Max depth: 2 meters.  Many beautiful buildings, statues, and rocks.  Though old, it’s more recent history is more noteworthy.  By recent, I mean within two hundred years from now.  Seems a dowager empress insisted on a beautification project of the Palace grounds (after European powers had burned it down) rather than updating the country’s navy, which was soon after soundly beaten by Japan’s navy.

Lunch was fine.  Prettily dressed servers with odd hats.  After returning to the hotel we were cut lose for the afternoon.  I went wandering towards a lama buddhist temple we’d driven past, mostly to see the shops along the road.  But I discovered down a side street the Temple of Confucius and Imperial College Museum.  Wonderful!  Really should be on the tour.  Virtually all the signage was also in English.  Lots of history, including the development of China’s famous qualifications process to become a public official.  Not too crowded, rather peaceful.  I was there until they closed.

Our official greetings dinner was at a table for 14 with a massive lazy susan.  For me, the noise level with 13 others in a circle made conversation impossible.  Wanted to leave so badly, but stuck around until the coffee.

17 arch bridge. Nine is a lucky number. The center arch is the ninth in either direction.

Boat (sort of) made out of marble. The superstructure is painted wood. “Boat of Purity and Ease”

There were many of these. The Tablet above is to recognize some great event or announce the start of a project.

This is some kind of musical instrument.

College Exams.

Tues, 4/10.  I’m using a VPN service to get around Chinese censures.  I just had a strange event which I can’t explain.  This is my second post; my first post got eaten.  Fortunately I’m having a swell time.  China is fun with admirable leadership.  (Several times Jacky has looked around before making a (generally favorable) comment about his country.  Habit, I guess.

We walked around the Chinese equivalent of Fifth Avenue.  Nice shops.  Very large Apple store that was just like every other Apple Store.  Even got an offer for assistance in English.  Less normal was a six story building only for food, “First Food Hall”.  They had the delicious sweet beef jerky I like so much.  Many Japanese outlets, thought the sushi looked old.

Took the experimental/demonstration Magnetic Levitation Train (Maglev) to the airport.  (The bus followed with our bags.)  180 MPH.  Very fast, but a money losing proposition.  They’ve got the science down, but not the costs.

Shanghai is a bustling town, but we’re all ready for some real China.  The flight to Beijing was normal. Beijing was much clearer than we expected, I guess because of high winds.  Hotel is on the historic grounds of a former princess’s home.  Quiet.  Saw a Harley-Davidson!  Nothing in Shanghai but scooters.

An old picture.

A new picture.

Mapping vehicle.

About 10 feet to the right is a location, but the sign seemed at first glance to be a standalone.

Mon, 4/9.  Took high speed train to Suzhou.  I clocked it at 173MPH.  Suzhou is a small city of only 4 million.  Took in another canal boat ride of limited interest.  Fortunately it was a beautiful day, which helped an otherwise boring cruise become worth it.  The oarsman sang.

Visited a rather pedestrian temple.  It had a long history, including an extended period when it was underutilized.  Ho-hum.  Jacky said everyone can practice the religion of their choice, but they can’t do it together.  Individual observance.

After another standard lunch we had a [quick] tour of a silk factory which ended in [slow] walk through the obligatory store.  I finally learned how silk originates.  Didn’t want to buy anything.

Lastly we walked through a traditional garden which made the entire day for me.  There were very few flowers, but the rocks, trees and buildings were laid out very nicely.  I could certainly imagine a day just sitting and contemplating great poetry.  Of course, the absence of numerous tourists, some with extremely loud guides, would help.  One guide handed out receivers and spoke into a mic.  Loudly.  We had a short demonstration of music.  I’m sorry to say that traditional Chinese song leaves me cringing.

I walked alone back to the hotel from the train station, trusting my offline map.  Walked through some of the less toured areas.  Everything was still clean[ish].  Passed several scooter repair shops.  Scooters are everywhere, many electric.  All are quiet.  Hardly anyone wears a helmet.  I think investing in a Chinese helmet manufacturer would be a wise idea.  Someday the government will require them.  1.4 billion potential helmet sales.

Tomorrow we fly to Beijing.  I just read that it’s got the 2nd busiest airport in the world.  Shanghai’s is only the 9th.

Finding the beginning of the silk thread should be a challenge, but they found an easy technique.

So far all singing has been several octaves above acceptable. Fortunately, the performance was very short.

Sun, 4/8.  After a slow 90 minute bus ride through heavy traffic we visited Fengjing village, an small version of Venice with a canal and boats.  It’s main claim to fame is the oldest existing bridge in China.  Lots of little traditional shops selling a variety of food and souvenirs, plus one new street with more modern shops (yes, a Starbucks).  It’s clearly a popular place; massive number of school outings.  Fun lunch.  Excellent kung pao chicken.  Since I came here with few expectations I can’t say I’m surprised by much, but I have noticed that the Chinese food here unexpectedly similar to Chinese food in the USA.  I don’t expect that to continue.  Bought a small bottle of what Jacky insists is rice wine, but it’s alcohol % is 42.  I have to do some research.

Returning to Shanghai, we spent several hours in the city’s Museum, one of the four best in China.  Overwhelming detail in very specific fields.  Coins, furniture, pottery, calligraphy, block signatures, etc.  Two hours were not enough or exhaustingly too much.  Lots of English translations.

I had told Jacky days ago that I wanted to visited the Jin Mao Tower’s 87th floor bar, called Cloud 9.  My seven companions latched onto this idea, so in the evening we piled into two cabs and made our way under the river and through the skyscrapers to the third tallest building in Shanghai and reputedly highest bar in the world.  Great views as expected.  Poor service as reported.  We did this outing without Jacky.  Our return was hampered by taxis insisting on going off the meter and charging triple prices.  We refused.  A valet offered to call an Uber(!) and I reimbursed him.  Only paid double.

Port wrapped in bamboo. Boiled.

Shredded turnip tempura. Very good.

The single canal, which gives the village a unique feel.

Each boat has a “Complaints Hotline” phone #.

Oldest bridge in China

View from the 87th floor of the Jin Mao Tower. About as high as the Empire State Building.

Oriental Pearl Radio Tower

This the “Smokestack”, or Shanghai Tower. Tallest building in town.