Thursday, Nov 3rd.  After a quick bus drive to Regensburg, we received a tour of Regensburg from a local resident whose native country was Nigeria.  Very knowledgable.  Our tour was focused primarily on the local Jewish history, of which there is a lot.  A purge in the 16th century caused the removal of the Jewish cemetery.  The headstones were thereafter used for building material, which are today highlighted.  (The reason for the purge was due to the cities bankruptcy, which they blamed on the Jewish money leaders.  Earlier in the trip a city blamed the Jewish community for the plague.)

Continuing the saga, amends for the Holocaust are being attempted by building a synagogue, mostly from Christian donations.  The exhibit set up to tell the story of the construction is in a Protestant church.  It’ll be opened next year.  We were fortunate to see the building, as they just recently took down the construction tent.  There are also numerous brass plates in the cobblestones with names of Jews (and friends of Jews) who died.  The guide called them stumbling blocks.

The cathedral was, as usual, big and busily adorned.  Extremely intricate windows. Across from it was a hat shop with a duplicate of the hat worn by Johnny Depp in Alice.  Perhaps the best hat shop I’ve ever visited.

Drank hot tea with rum.  Excellent potato wedges. Chocolate shops, cuckoo clock shops.  Lots of shops.  Being a Saturday, crowded but relaxed.  Cars drive around with no apparent lanes.  It’s all cobblestones.  Bikes, previously required to be walked, are few.

Least I forget, the key historic artifact of Regensburg is the bridge across the Danube.  For centuries the primary trade route from Europe to the orient.  The aforesaid bankruptcy was in fact due to the discovery of alternative trade routes.  The bridge, for good or bad, was recently renovated, so it looks new on the surface.

Back on the ship, we were treated to a wonderful performance of classical opera singing, with some modern songs thrown in.  Lots of humor too.  Captivating.

Friday, Nov 2nd.  I decided at the last minute to take the World War II Tour in Nuremberg.  I’m pretty good with history so I didn’t think it would teach me much and it really didn’t.  But it certainly did make me feel something.  The tour was mostly centered on events leading up to and following the war.  Both timelines were emotionally stimulating.

Stood on the Tribune grounds, where the Nazi movement grew and grew.  Interestingly , it was deliberately not a target of bombings because the allies didn’t want to incite Nazi radicals.  Saw where Hitler rattled on about the injustices done to the master race.  Toured the museum, which ironically is within a building constructed by the Nazis.  The museum architect, appalled by the location, designed the floors and exhibits to not touch the building’s walls.  Ingenious.  For anyone without good knowledge of pre-war Germany, do the tour!

Next we went to Room 600 of the Nuremberg Justice Center, where the Nuremberg Trails happened.  Every room in the building is numbered, so 600 means nothing.  It’s still an active courtroom, so the tour guide was very excited to discover that no trial was in session and could sit us down in the room and give an excellent narrative.  We were very lucky to sit in history.  I’ve been in Ford’s Theater in Washington D.C.  Same emotion.

Had lunch in the Old Town (90% destroyed in WWII.)  Their famous bratwurst tastes strangely just like Jimmy Dean sausages.  Beer was fine.  Market is excellent.  The town is so steeped in history it confuses the senses.  Ginger cookies are wonderful.  Bought Yoriko (a lover of handbags) a chocolate handbag.  Bought another apple strudel, this time with raisins, not nuts.  Got a free Saturday? Go there.

The long drive and ship swap to Passau (because of low water) was shorter than expected.  In growing darkness, the scenery was outstanding.  Every time I opened my eyes I was presented with another postcard-perfect village in the distance, complete with a church steeple.  It was frankly better than a riverboat experience.  The new ship (Embla) is a nearly identical ship to the Lif.  A little older.  So far the crew is, if possible, better than the Lif.  This is so much fun!!

Thursday, Nov 1st.  Lazy morning.  Locks are taller, which is exciting.  Your balcony is 10 inches from a stone wall.  Morning briefing about how to do a ship swap.  Nothing unexpected.  Most people are taking it in stride.  After lunch a bus ride to Bamberg.  Fun tour, though the city’s market was closed due to All Saint’s day.  Spied a cemetery with dozens of well dress people paying their respects.  Bamberg was spared any bombing, one clearly false reasoning being that the allies knew that the best breweries were in the city.  I tried their acclaimed Smoke Beer.  Smelled like bacon, tasted like burned IPA.  Pass.

Their history was not unlike Wurzberg.  Many churches, a palace modeled after the Louvre, but no fort.  The consistency helps my memory retention of both.  There were several very lovely legends about the rulers, which sound great be are historically dubious.  I enjoyed their enthusiasm for undocumented facts.  I saw a lot of casual leaning against buildings, drinking beer, conversing and enjoying the day.    Excellent river bridge to congregate around.  Pleasing to watch.  The tour guide laughed a lot at her own jokes.  I’m getting the feeling that either Germans are a lot more fun than expected, or that they’re told to laugh a lot to offset their reputation.  I hope it’s the former.

Tomorrow will be interesting, what with a tour of Nuremberg, lunch, and long bus ride to Passau.

Wednesday, Oct 31st.  Finally, a port the ship ties up to and stays in place!  We did two tours.  The first was mostly through the inside of the local palace, which thoroughly lives up to the name palace.  A lot of the building was destroyed by one bombing raid very shortly before the end of the war.  But the town rebuilt it!  Absolutely breathtaking rooms.  Marvelous artwork and workmanship.  Sadly, no photos allowed.  We finished the tour with a walk through town.  A fun little market, more churches, lots of activity.  This is a university town, with about 30,000 students.  It doesn’t feel old.

After lunch nine hearty souls did the second tour, billed as a “Walk Among the Vines”.  Actually, it’s a drive to a hillside chruch, walk down to the river, then a climb through vineyards up to the local fort.  And then back down.  About 4 miles.  We maintained a very slow lecturing pace so it wasn’t hard.  Extremely informative, somewhat exhilarating.  An excellent time.

Back on board, the ship had some Halloween feel to it, with many crewmen wearing face paint.  Pumpkins.  The bad news was that the Captain announced that we’ll do a ship swap from Nuremberg to Passau on Friday. But it looks hopeful that we’ll get all the way to Budapest from there. Passengers seem resigned to it, happily. No ugly scenes when the announcement was made. The crew has been all one can ask of Viking and we’ll be sorry to leave them. It’s been a great time to date though obviously more busing than expected or hoped for.

Tuesday, Oct 30th.  Miltenberg in the rain.  Cold rain.  But first came the Emergency drill, complete with life preservers.  Ridiculous.  I could wade ashore.

Then a thorough glass shaping demonstration on board.  Flames.  The salesman explained that he personally knew the person who provided the flame detection devices on board.  “They don’t work.”  Ha ha.  The demo was long and he strayed often from the point.  But it sure worked.  Lots of sales.

Tour of Miltenberg.  The guide enjoyed his own laughter a little too much though some of his jokes were indeed funny.  Beautiful little town, even in the rain.  The guide provided lots of little details that you’d miss without him.  We saw the oldest hotel in Germany, perhaps the world.  It’s main claim to fame?  Elvis slept there while he was in the Army.  We had beers at the pub in the hotel.  Big mugs, very German.  Then I bought a hat (a fairly required action for me.)  And Apple Strudel to go which I plan to have tomorrow for breakfast.  Others bought cuckoo clocks.  Even in the rain it was a great day in a small genuine German town.

We bused to where the ship would be, only to learn that the ship was delayed in a lock.  So we waited 45 minutes in the bus.  I’m tired of buses.  

Monday, Oct 29th.  Heavy overcast, so photos aren’t great.  Quite cold.   

Bus to riverboat, whose crew never tired of pouring drinks.  Lunch included perhaps the driest chicken I’ve ever had.  But they had drinks.  The deserts were excellent.  Especially with the drinks.

A two hour cruise down the Rhine, castles everywhere.  What was perhaps more surprising were the vineyards, on impossibly steep slopes.  Colorful too.  I never thought I’d say I had my fill of castles, but today it happened.  The small towns were really pretty too.

Passed the famous Lorelei Mountain, owner of various legends.  Had a statue, near the water’s edge, of Lorelei.

After debarkation, we bused to Marksburg Castle, the only one never captured or damaged.  Very interesting tour.  Store sold Schnapps. Yum.

Returned to the ship, and it departed!!  The tour began in Amsterdam, but the cruise begins now!  Tomorrow Miltenberg.

Early breakfast was beyond  fine.  The toaster was a challenge but I figured it out.  Announcement of the tour to Mainz was at 8:30, for an 8:45 departure.  At 8:50 Gabor said the buses were on the way.  At 9:05 we were all called to the bar for an Announcement.  Traffic accident was going to delay departure until after lunch.  The elite eight, accompanied by a few other brave souls, went on a walkabout along the river and also viewed a “Pleasure Palace” and an old castle, built in the 1300s but bought and rebuilt in 1805. Built to impress, not to defend.  Really very interesting.

After lunch we finally departed to downtown Mainz.  Besides a great tour in very cold weather, we had a history-tinkling demostration of the Gutenberg press.  Worth all the delays and disruptions as far as I’m concerned.  We also tasted some unfermented wine-based grape juice.  A first for us.

Dinner was far too much fun. The food was secondary to the conversation.  We compared some Fess Parker wine I’d brought with the offered Rhone blend.  Parker won, hands down.  (Was there any doubt?)  Also met some wonderfully interesting people from various USA locations.  As I’ve lectured throughout the world, “We’re all just people”. Placing people into specific niches is an error in judgement.

Yes, the cruise has not followed routine.  But we’re having fun, so who cares?

Saturday, Oct 27th.  Bus transfer from Amsterdam to Mainz/Wiesbaden. Keynotes for Amsterdam was steep steps and cobblestones.  Keynotes after one day with the rest of the ship’s passengers appear to be sloooow and late.  There are some genuine seniors on board, which I frankly applaud, in spite of their speed.  I’ll be them in 20 (10?) years.  Nice bus, excellent roads.  interesting scenery.

Cologne lunch was beer and some food.  It was okay, but not Viking-worthy.  Walking tour was extremely good.  Guide was fun and funny.  The city deserves far more than two hours.  Cathedral was hard to grasp.  Enormous.  Needs a power wash in the worst way.  Guide said he had never seen it without some scaffolding.  Reminiscent of roads in LA.

Bus to Mainz was quick.  Arrived in total darkness.  Our group of eight is finally together.  After arrival, we repositioned to Wiesbaden from Mainz.  Tomorrow we do a walking tour of Mainz, then free time.

Crew was everything I expect from Viking.  Just wonderful.  Meal was excellent.  Desert addition (melted chocolate cake!) done without hesitation.  Bar service proactive (“Your champagne bottle is too warm.  I’ll cool it down.”)

We’re in a two room suite; a bribe to get Yoriko to retire.  Best part; free laundry service.  Second best; all day free wine/beer.  

Honestly, the bus ride was as bad as any bus ride.  As with water levels, I can’t really fault Viking for it.  But everything else as just fine.  A great start.

Friday, Oct 26th. No pictures.   (Thanks to my friend Rick for the inspiration for the title.)  Ugly day, winds and occasionally rain.  Departed our AirBnb via Mercedes Benz van.  Arrived at the pier per instructions, off-loaded bags.  After 30 minutes in the cold wind, Viking reps put us in a taxi for a one mile drive to the Movenpick Hotel.  Checked in, met the cruise director (Gabor), told our rooms weren’t ready, had drinks at the bar, had lunch, etc.  My sister arrived from the airport and shortly thereafter departed to walk around Amsterdam and visit the Anne Frank House.  Napped.  Dinner at 7:00.  Bottomless wine glasses.  Given a schedule for tomorrow.  Met nice people who had been on 14 river cruises, some that had been diverted due to high water.  As I’ve said, Mother Nature will have her little fun.  In perspective, a boring day.  But still interesting.

Tomorrow, two long drives with a Cologne Tour and lunch in between.  We’ll meet our ship in Mainz.  It’s all good.

Thursday, Oct 25th.  Museumed out.  Sore feet.  Cobblestones.  Good times!

Scattered rain all day didn’t slow bikers.  Indeed, I think they peddled faster.  Van Gogh Museum was within easy walking distant, much like everywhere else here.  Modern building, well organized entry.  (Nearly every museum has a free cloak room.)  Audio aid was 5 Euro, which we passed on.  Wisely I think.  The museum is overwhelming in detail.  For people who just wanted to see his works, they were not disappointed except for the masses of people standing in place while the audio device talked.  There was a wealth of written stories of his life and times (he was quite the letter writer).  I guess I was would have preferred an exhibit of “The Essential Van Gogh” without the four floors of his paintings and those of his contemporaries.  Must see?  Yes, you must.  Just don’t feel guilty if you skip one or two (hundred) paintings.  (Great memory: Smiling Guard, in a loud voice and pointing finger; “NoooOOO  PICTuuuures!”)

Brunch was a large bacon and cheese sandwich at a park trailer.  Really good.

The Rijks Museum is just plain unfair.  If Van Gogh’s Museum was overfull of Van Gogh, the Rijks was overfull of everything.  We walked through one and half sections of maybe 12 sections?  The model ship room alone had at least 100 models.  Lots of details.  Two days of standing and looking was required.  Emphasis on standing.  My feet were in serious pain.  Walking worked OK, but standing was agony.  I think it was the sidewalk cobblestones.  Of course, climbing the Dom Tower in Utrecht to start the week didn’t help.  Must lose weight.

Strolled through stalls dominated by tulip bulbs.  The occasional cheese or chocolate store.  Took in the Rembrandt House (1606).  Very nice walk through.  A much simpler museum but also very well done.  There’s no denying that Amsterdam knows how to design Museums.  Most rooms have “bed boxes” that I really wanted to test.  There were several references to the problem that he taught his pupils so well, today controversies exist on which paintings are his and which are his students.  A good teacher, apparently.  A bad financier, as he lost the house and furnishings eventually.

Late lunch along the canal.  Rain.  An open tour boat (of the open bar variety) with everyone using identical large black umbrellas.  A floating pod of black mushrooms.  Bitterballen snack.  Very nice.  A touch of curry powder.

The Hermitage, originally where old (retired) women went to live out their days doing laundry for patrons.  It’s now an annex museum of the Hermitage in St. Petersburg.  Lovely layout and apparently a favorite of the city’s upper crust society.  In keeping with one portrait exhibit of the city’s founders, the hallways also have full-sized paintings of the museum’s current Board Members.  Ego is not a curse here.

Dinner again in Rembrandt Plaza (Place?).   A remarkable sample starter tray, then unremarkable ribs.  Rather disappointing.