Thursday, 5/30. Hot hot hot. We had a lot of downtime. A morning boat ride across the Nile, then camels up to an ancient Coptic Monastery. A unique tour few undertake. No literature, but our guide did a great job explaining everything. Lots of history. Returned via camel and boat. Had a fun time with my camel (“Lulu”) and her handler. (Two companions didn’t go and one got ill during the trip.)

Pool time, with a morning beer. Drive to lunch. Great food, so-so restaurant. I’m sensing a trend. More downtime. Then a trip to the Gem Store and Papyrus Art Gallery. Learned how papyrus was made, which is why I came. Meanwhile, I sat while others bought.

Home-hosted Dinner. Nice small family. Made balloons for the young child, talked a lot to the single mother (divorce), who spoke excellent English. Works at airport security. Again, excellent food.

Wednesday, 5/29. Hot. Very hot. Tours are comprised of moving from one shady spot to another. I’m surviving, but my Ramadan effort went down for the heat and one other reason.

Early flight from Cairo to Aswan routine. Bused across the Aswan Dam, which should not be confused with the High Aswan Dam. The former was built by Britain in the early 20th century. We’ll see the High Dam in a few days. Arrived at a boat landing to cruise over to the relocated Isis Temple. Long talk about the Isis myth, which in the heat was overlong. Buildings were interesting. For some centuries it was a Coptic Church with minimal modifications. The island has cats. Boated over to another island for lunch. I was still fasting, but the food looked very good. Boated back to shore and proceeded to the hotel.

Five Star Hotel! The best one I’ve ever stayed at. Churchill was a regular. Agatha Cristie was too. Part of Death On The Nile was bested on it. Walls are filled with famous guests. Room is huge, view is fantastic. We stay two nights. Pool was great. I was suffering from dehydration a bit and I was in a five star hotel with custom named cocktails. Out went my fasting. Later we went to the market. Yawn. However, as we were leaving there were cloths being laid out on the alleys with dishes set out, in preparation for sunset. Some already had food out, but no consumption yet. Our dinner was off-site in a less than fancy restaurant. Delicious flatbread stuffed with a thin layer of beef. Very, very good.

We’re not actually doing that much touring, in part due to prior reviews that criticized the hectic schedule (and high heat). I con’t argue with the concept. But just looking out from my balconies (yes, two!) is enough to sense Egypt’s history.

Tuesday, 5/28. Consumed no food or drink until sunset. It was a challenge. Especially on a day that I climbed into the Great Pyramid of Cheops. I don’t think I’ll continue tomorrow. Should be 114 degrees.

Cairo is growing so large it’s nearly encircled the Pyramid Plateau. But it’s still pretty darn impressive. Cheops’ is the largest by a good bit, but the second one (built by his son) is on higher ground. Dutiful son, but sly. Overly friendly hawkers try to hand you something, then insist you buy it. Camels and horses are common. No Chinese tourists! (Not that I’m complaining.) To walk into the King’s Chamber costs $22, so there isn’t a crowd. It’s a cramped, steep and hot climb, though not as bad as my Dad related 30+ years ago. The chamber is smaller than I thought, and it’s empty. Really not much to it at all, except for the bragging rights of having been in it.

The boat, discovered only 65 years ago, was found disassembled. It took 13 years to figure out how to put in together. Remarkably good condition. They say it would float if put in the water. Ropes run throw drilled holes in the boards were used as fasteners. Huge boat, but it looked badly top-heavy.

The Sphinx was smaller than expected. Disappointing. It was located next to the docking area so it might have often been surrounded by water. It’s mostly one big stone that, rather than clear out, was shaped into a monument. Theoretically. The new museum is nearby and looks very impressive. But not close to ready. A December showtime is doubtful.

Lunch looked good. Dinner was a buffet on a boat welded to the pier. Huge crowd immediately after sunset. 30 minutes later the buffet table is removed and half the customers go off to pray.

Monday, 5/27. Saturday flights were routine. Drive from airport to Marriott Hotel was not. Horns, heavy traffic (10 PM), driver and escort (security?). “Red lights and lane lines are decorations.” If they have lane lines. Two lane roads have three-wide traffic. Massive billboards.

Beautiful hotel complex is full of revelers. Sober revelers. Fast all day, party all night. I’ve quickly learned that Ramadan pervades existence. I’m not sure this is what Mohammad had in mind.

Sunday I rested. A whole lot of nothing. My huge room has a front row view of the Nile. I had arrived one day early for the tour so the room was at my expense. $55 a night for a five star hotel. In the evening the tour group got together for a quick informal walking tour of the neighborhood. Many shops closed while people prayed and ate following sundown (in that order). They would reopen at about 8:30. Neighborhoods set up tables to serve poor people. Tour Leader kept calling the meal “Break fast”, which was disruptive to thought process.

Monday was the formal start of the Tour. Introductions. Many companions are wordy. Lots of experience to go with their age. Some in their eighties, all well traveled. I’m the outlier. Only one other has no companion. Tour of the Egypt Museum. Not a great building and poor presentation of incredible history. English descriptions on old, faded signs. A new building is under construction near the pyramids and some items have already been moved. Leader refers to “Egyptian Time” when asked when the new museum will open. Maybe December. King Tut’s items were marvelous. No photos allowed of his stuff. Lots of displays are behind glass, making photos difficult. The entire place is overwhelming in it’s collections.

Decided to follow my Roman roots and try out Ramadan fasting (i.e., do as they do). Had some water in the morning, but otherwise skipped breakfast and lunch. Walked back to the hotel rather than sit while others ate. Fitness center and pool in the PM. Counted the minutes until sunset (6:47). But after the meal I went to bed while the Egyptians partied. I found a study that examined cause of death trends during Ramadan in a city in Turkey. Suicides and homicides go down (religious fervor and lack of alcohol-related violence), while accidental deaths and natural causes go up (distracted thinking from hunger and poor health). Cancels things out.

The companions are creeping me out with their banter. After a month of 24/7 with Yoriko, I’m missing her. But I’m in Egypt! Tomorrow I see the pyramids. Things could be worse. (It’s not too hot yet.)