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Wednesday, May 24. Failed to take photos of many things. Also, we were asked to not post photos of the day’s (and possibly the trip’s) high point: An inside tour of the Cathedral Cologne, the world’s tallest cathedral.

The day began with a quick bus ride across the Rhine to the west side, then assembling into groups for a walking tour back to the ship. Our guide was excellent. There were a great many topics to discuss about Germany and Cologne, spanning from Roman times to the current day. He included a long explanation about the war from Germany’s view which I thought was very well and carefully presented. Pointed out many remaining remembrances of the city’s wartime damage. The effort to retain damaged parts while not highlighting them was impressive.

Stores selling Eau de Cologne were common. Bars selling local beer (Kolsch) were more common. The beer was not special, but the tradition for serving it was cool. Small glasses, refilled automatically, with the count marked on the coaster. We were never more than a few blocks from the Cathedral, which was massively impressive. It’s size was hard to perceive from the ground.

After the tour we shared a great lunch of potato soup and the German equivalent of bangers and mash. Plus beer. We returned to the ship by walking across the train bridge, with it’s famous mass of locks attached everywhere. The tradition is to throw the lock’s key into the river to represent unending love. I had to laugh at the small number of combination locks.

Shortly after our return a small number of us set off again to the cathedral. The ship surprised us by arranging pedicabs, which resulted in us having more time to experience the cathedral. It was absolutely amazing. We used a construction elevator to go one-third of the way up, then used it again for the second third. The tour went both outside along the edge and inside, overlooking the interior. Sometimes we could look either way at once. We toured old unused sections of the church that had become storage areas, walked through the gigantic “attic”, including a fully equipped tool shop and sculpture reconditioning area. It was all just incredible to see how much open space was available. Most of the areas we visited weren’t built until the nineteenth century, so, unlike Notre Dame, the structural material was metal.

We did the last third of the climb via stairs, including a very ornate circular staircase. This only brought us to the central, lower tower. The two main towers are climbable, but our guide said the view from their tops are highly screened off. Our view was more than enough (250 feet). Sadly the clouds darkened the scenery. But overall the tour was superb.

After the tour we had some more beer and apple strudel. We also found that the Information Office had the best gift shop.

It was a full but most impressive day.

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Tuesday, May 23. (Late Posting; Too much activity on the Rolf. The bar, where I usually do my work, was actually hopping every night.) Absolutely beautiful day. Kinderdijk is famous for it’s 19 18th century water-pumping windmills. The area is full of canals of various sizes. We took a restored canal boat to one of the more distant windmills, then got a tour and demonstration of the mill. Guide was very devoted towards answering all our questions. Quaint spaces inside, suitable for a family. Perhaps the oddest thing was that they have no running water. Dishes are cleaned in the canal. Canal water is boiled for drinking.

The riverboat has an outstanding crew. The cruise director is so cheerful and helpful. Only criticism is that she repeats everything at least twice, hinting that she thinks we’re inattentive (and some of the passengers most certainly are). The Captain is amazingly accessible, with an open door policy to the pilot house.

The river is crowded with shipping. Most cargo ships have at least one car on the roof. One had three. Lots of interest views along the river.

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Monday, May 22. The transfer from the Ocean ship Jupiter to the Riverboat Rolf was not just painless, but also pleasurable. During the transfer of our luggage Viking took us on an excursion to an open air museum north of Amsterdam. Great views of windmills. Some birding opportunities. Nice shops, including demonstrations for making cheese and clog shoes. A very nice way to delay our transfer.

We arrived with our bags already in our rooms. After a too worrisomely fancy lunch (they couldn’t even make coleslaw without messing with the basic recipe), we headed ashore. Amsterdam is just a fantastic city. We mostly just walked, but it was a great time. Dinner was fine, though I had to ask for some adaptations.

The ship’s crew are a lot of fun. Should be a great week.

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Friday, May 19. The city is beautiful. New buildings, old buildings. Gorgeously painted. No graffiti. Statues, statues, statures. An entire park containing the works of Parque de Vigeland with a theme of The Circle of Life, but its common style (nudity) left me cold. Vigeland famously didn’t explain his sculptures saying they’re purposes are in the eye of the beholder, which gives me the right to have my own opinion.

But the rest of the city had a massive number of sculptures that I did enjoy. Their large, modern and beautiful new ski jump was very unnatural but very impressive in shape. An small funicular took jumpers to the top. The new opera house was, as usual, unusual. Sloping roofs allowed people to walk to its top. The city has a policy of open doors everywhere. Few gates and easy entry. Even their military area is fairly open.

We took a ferry to the Maritime Museum. Nice place, though I’d expected a reconstructed Viking boat. They had one, but it was very small. They are reassembling a larger one, due in five years.

Ate a Norwegian pizza. Different, but not too different. Walked through their fort. Realized too late the the US Coast Guard square-rigger Eagle was in port and giving tours. The sail out was pretty, but nothing compared to Flam.

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Thursday, May 18. After all the excitement last night, I was bushed. We did the included walking tour of Kristiansand in the morning, then slept away most of the afternoon. The tour was great. The city has a lot of interesting sites and history.

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Wednesday, May 17. It was very disappointing to pass by Stavanger. The ship did roll quite a bit, though nothing severe. But safety came first. I made use of the spa again. Otherwise a quiet day at sea.

Arrived in Kristiansand, named after its founder, King Kristian. The “sand” was added because it’s a sandy area. We docked in the industrial area, but it wasn’t a long walk into town. Because it’s a national holiday(think Independence Day), the city was jumping. Parties everywhere. We walked past a small harbor with parties on each boat, then down a very crowded street. After passing a very odd McDonalds we heard band music behind us. Lo and behold, a marching band was approaching. Very serious, very good. After passing by we noticed that a not small mass of people were following, so we joined in for a few blocks. Seriously, it made a typical July 4th celebration look like a church social.

I was still disappointed to miss Stavanger and the famous children’s parade, but it was a nice consolation event.

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Tuesday, May 16. Flam is about 100 miles from the North Sea. Though we woke long after the ship entered the fjord, we got to see more than a few gorgeous vistas before arriving in Flam. Sadly there was a megaship hogging the pier, so we had to shuttle in.

Pier side had plenty of tourist shops and sights, but we had selected a full day excursion and never saw actually visited the immediate area. Our bus tour included several short waterfall photo stops, made shorter by the inevitably slow disembarkation from the bus. Lunch was at a very swanky hotel, situated next to the last emperor’s summer house(?). Great view of the valley below. The buffet lunch was heavy on seafood.

Briefly visited a “farmstead” museum. 30 minutes of what could have been a half-day experience. The bus had to slowly negotiate a fairly busy one-lane road, which was a little maddening.

The key aspect of the excursion was a series of train rides. The first was a typical commuter train that climbed to 866 meters, where we encountered snow! Everyone rushed to the adjoining train while I enjoyed the snow. This train was a pure tourist event. Many tunnels, many waterfalls. We stopped between two tunnels at one particularly pretty waterfall and a short recorded musical performance. Very creepy music with a blonde-haired “woman” in red dancing beside the falls some distance away. My camera showed that she was probably a dark-haired man with a poorly placed wig. But it was a marvelous performance considering the view.

We returned to the ship to learn that, due to weather, our visit tomorrow to Stavanger would be canceled. This is especially disappointing because it’s “Constitution Day”, when the town hosts a series of parades and parties.

Dinner in the Italian specialty restaurant was very good. The cruise out of the fjord was enchanting, with periodic sunshine highlighting snow packed mountains. The nightclub where I hang out was jammed since no one had to wake up early in the morning.

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Monday, May 15. Finally, typical Bergen weather, but without rain. Waited at the hotel for Yoriko’s bag to appear. With the AirTag, we knew it was sitting at the airport. It moved at 11 o’clock, but to the ship, not the hotel! So we’d wasted the morning. Walked the kilometer to the ship. Boarding was routine. After being reunited with Yoriko’s bag and visiting our new home we went back ashore for a little sightseeing. Old fort and tower.

Had a late dinner in the ship’s Chef’s Table restaurant. The theme was Chinese. Very good paring of wines until the beef. Wonderful service, as usual. Met the bartender my sister had recommended from a prior cruise. The night club’s band is entertaining. There are more younger people on board than we’re used to, “Younger” being a relative term.

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Sunday, May 14. Fjord cruise. Beautiful day (another one of the sixty days of sunshine). The bay and fjord is much more populated than we expected. All the buildings are beautifully painted. It took over an hour to get to the mostly wilderness part of the fjord. As expected, many waterfalls. Steep cliffs. It was a fun cruise, but not incredible. Slept a little on the way back.

Had a late lunch at a popular sushi/fish restaurant. “Fish Me”. $$$. Good food.

Wandered through the souvenir shops. Had sparkling wine at an outdoor cafe. $$$. All the buildings were so very pretty. We were both stressed out over luggage, so neither had much interest in any in-depth museum touring.

Dinner was at one of the more famous restaurants. Bryggeloftet & Stuene. Superb filet of reindeer. Yoriko had lake trout. Service, setting and food was all terrific. $$$$. (Bergen is a very expensive city.)

Our hotel hosted passengers from the Viking Venus, so it was bedlam both days. Viking Jupiter also was in port (a day earlier than necessary). Seeing two Viking ships was an odd sight. 

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