My first bad day. No pics, no sightseeing.

Driving through clouds all morning, on my way to Corpus Christi.  The Goldwing is a remarkably dry ride, but the water and limited visibility is depressing. Then I stop to add air. Pump drains air instead. The attendant: “It’s not our pump. There’s a number on the pump to dial if it’s not working.” I just stare at her (a favorite trick I have when faced with an unhelpful answer). Finally, she adds “We have a pump out back that we let truckers use.” Success!  But I’m now hot, wet, dirty and disappointed with the quality of humanity. (Though I suggest they put an “out of order” sign on the air pump, it’s not done as of the time I leave.)

There’s really nothing to see in the fog, so I skip Corpus Christi and drive to San Antonio, a day ahead of plans. I took the rest of the day off from anymore Adventures. I’ll resume tomorrow.

I did succeed in driving through San Diego, TX. But there was no sign to take a picture of.  Oddly enough, there’s a Julian St.

Fairly simple ride today.  Started at the Whitehead Museum in Del Rio.  Really, just a lot of old stuff without much comment.  The same could be said of the entire town.  I’d give it a pass.

Not much between the two cities, except for Eagle Pass.  Mexico has a huge flag flying, but I was going nuts trying to find a good place for a picture.  Goldwing’s NAV system is just horrible.  But I finally succeeded, finding myself right on the Rio Grande.  Almost literally.  See the pics.

Only a few cool historical signs.  One was considered not picture worthy until I realized where I was standing.  Again, see the pics.

Drove through Dimmit County.  It might have been a typo by the residents?

Laredo has an interesting history.  Seems that when Texas won independence from Mexico, Laredo wasn’t considered part of the prize. It was disputed territory.  In 1840 there was a revolt, with Laredo and it’s surroundings declaring themselves independent of everyone.  Texans tried to take control, only to be repulsed.  Mexico did succeed in quelling the revolt, but Laredo was officially independent for 283 days.  In 1848 Mexico ceded ownership to the US.  So for a while Laredo was not Mexico, nor Texas.

I splurged and had a steak at the Tack Room and a margarita next door at La Posada Hotel.  A guy in Alpine recommended them both.  Excellent!!

Camping tonight.  Supposed to get down to 72 degrees.  Not a problem.  Showers!

Ladies: Read carefully.  Justification for legalizing cocaine!

I think my lawn mower engine is bigger.

Can you identify the car? 1947.

Wine Grape crusher.

Del Rio city hall. Constructed with limestone. Looks like a castle.

Waiting for the ferry to Mexico. Not.

A Mexican cow. If it swims across, is it an illegal steak?

The fence is 100 yards north of the river. The flag is gigantic!

This sign, about four deaths, didn’t seem picture worthy . . .

. . . until I realized where the graves were!

My home in Oceanside is only miles from California’s El Camino Real.

Politics is politics.  The Donald is most definitely a Boot.

I’ve changed the picture size.  If this is a bad idea, will someone please email me?

I saw my first Smartcar today in Texas.  I don’t think I ever got my Smartcar up to the Texas speed limit (75 MPH).  At least not on a flat road.

Fort Stockton State Historical Park isn’t exactly what I expected.  Fort Davis (a National Park) was much more complete.  But they honored my veteran status, so good for them.  Fort Stockton was another post that housed Buffalo Soldiers.  I learned that they were proud of that title, so it shouldn’t be considered a slur.  Their cool motto was “We can, We will”.

The Annie Riggs Museum was very interesting.  It’s an old hotel with room after room of antiques.  Lots of comments that put things in context.  They also had a video regarding Annie Riggs various nefarious husbands.

Today I’ve posted nearly every historical marker on Route 90, from Sanderson to Del Rio.  If it’s too much, my apologies.  But I found them interesting. Kudos to Texas for putting them up.

The Judge Roy Bean Museum was absolutely worthy of a stop.  Though they tried to bring real history to his story, they admitted that legend and fact are hard to distinguish.  He was certainly a real character in a past that had a lot of characters.  There’s a cactus farm that exceeded my interest in the field.  Besides the Museum, the center has a huge collection of tourist brochures for all of Texas.  There is a lot of Texas I’m missing.

I was going to stay at the Amistad [Reservoir] National Recreation Area, but it was 100 degrees when I arrived (this is still March, right?) and they don’t have showers.  The local RV campsites don’t accept tenters.  So I’m again in a hotel.  The price isn’t too bad.  And I’m able to post this.  The next two nights I’m definitely at campgrounds.  I have reservations.  Then I’ll be in San Antonio to watch a Spurs game.

This is now the second largest roadrunner. Another statue in NM is now #1.

I post this in honor of my brother, who blew the bugle at Scout camp oh so many years ago.

Cool.

This is a picture of a reenactment. But it’s still a remembrance of real western history.

Their barracks at Fort Stockton. From a naval perspective, a great deal of space!

Nice stickers on this Beemer.

This is way out there! The runway looks pristine.

The main part of Comstock today.

Caves look cool

If you look closely, you’ll see that someone left a dog dish (with water) at this rest stop.

The truck gives perspective of the size of the bridge.

An old picture. Today and yesterday are very similar.

Nice.

Bullet holes in the chimney?

Do not stay at the Sunday House Inn in Alpine.  Do visit the Saddle Club Alpine Bar.  Eclectic snacks.

Saw a dead deer, doubtlessly struck by a vegetarian.  (Leads to one of my favorite jokes: What’s the literal translation of the Indian word for vegetarian? “Bad Hunter”)

Spring Break nightmare: It took 20 minutes to enter Big Bend.  The campsites were full.  I said full.  Really, I mean full.  That’s the message the Rangers were trying to get through to everyone.  One Ranger: “I hate this week.”  Another: “I’ve been turning people away for four days.”  Everywhere was crowded, but strangely the roads were pretty clear.

I drove all three main roads to their ends.  Nice roads.  Nice Nature and Vista stops.  An excellent Park in layout.  But there’s just not much there there, with one remarkable exception making the whole day worthwhile.  Unbeknownst to me, the Rio Grande introduces itself through Saint Elena Canyon with 1,500 foot cliffs on both sides.  Mexico cliff to the south, USA to the north.  It’s really an unusual instance.  How the river carved a path through the cliff is fascinating reading (no, I didn’t understand it).  You can walk or paddle into the canyon.  (There is, at this time, no fence down the middle of the river.)  I did this trail and took some nice pictures. One was with the camera pointing up from the ground at me.  My right shoulder touches Mexico, my left USA.  There aren’t too many places in the world where you can take that kind of picture.

There are a host of trails available and I’m sure they’re fine.  But without a campsite, I had to leave.  I had intended to spend two nights in BB, so by leaving without a single night’s stay I was ahead of schedule.  I ended up tonight in Fort Stockton, which is in fact a place I wanted to go anyway, before Fort Davis and BB was recommended.  It’s strange how things turn out. Tomorrow I’ll check out the history here, then head to Judge Roy Bean Visitor Center and Amistad National Recreation Area.  I hope my luck will be better there.  Spring Break is costing me money.

I read a historical sign with more about camels in the army.  Intriguing history.  Look it up.

Cathedral Mountain. There’s also a Hen’s Egg Mountain.

Looking into Saint Elena Canyon.

My feet are in the water.

USA on the left, Mexico on the right. (Big Bend has six Border Patrol Agents assigned.)

Looking out of Saint Elena Canyon

Mexico on my right, USA on my left.

I managed the night okay. 32 degrees, but this time I was prepared. Since I had no long drive today I was able to walked around a bit. Davis Mountains State Park is highly recommended. They even attempted to have wifi.  It’s mostly for tents, though there was one tenter driving an 18 wheeler cab.

McDonald Observatory was fun. Toured one of their several telescopes. They even let little girls take turns moving the giant telescope around and rotating the dome. We saw a live viewing of a large solar flare, which the lecturer said we were lucky to catch.  Beautiful views from the mountain, as usual.

Fort Davis National Historical Park (about Fort Davis) was much more involved than I would have expected. Big place for such a small number of soldiers.  The best part was a camel exhibit.  I learned a lot about camels from their handler.  “Did indians ever steal camels?” “Yes, they reported them delicious!”)  Before the Civil War the Army experimented with them as pack animals.   Also of interest: For much of the fort’s history after the Civil War it was manned by Buffalo Soldiers.

Saw my second 2015 anniversary Goldwing (like mine).

I’m in Alpine tonight paying way too much for a hotel room, doing laundry. Tomorrow I’ll hopefully get a tent site at Big Bend National Park. But this is Spring Break week for much of Texas. Ugh.

Carlsbad Caverns Entrance (and Exit!)

Camping offers much better views than a hotel

Home on the range

McDonald Observatory, Fort Davis, TX

Fort Davis ruins with a view.

Camel aside, note buildings.

Before the Civil War, the Army tried an experiment using camels as pack animals.

Texas sized hotel room (Texas sized price too!)

No pictures today I think. (See the following day’s report for one pic.)  Pictures within a Cavern have never really held me in awe.  You will just need to Go.

Trying to camp tonight again.  At a nearby restaurant typing this.

To start with a digression, I rank only a few places I’ve visited in America that are on the prime list of places to go before one dies.  They’re all tied for #1.  There’s a lot of other places that certainly deserve to be visited, but they aren’t absolutes.

• 1a: In the Grand Canyon (not on the edge.)
• 1b: Washington, DC
• 1c: Yellowstone
• 1d: Through Yosemite (not the touristy section)

I’m adding Carlsbad Caverns to the above list.  The elevators were broken, so not only did I walk down, but also up.  And I walked the extra “Big Room” loop.  It was all fascinating.  Far beyond anything I expected.  I think I was lucky that the elevators were broken because it wasn’t jammed with people. But I wasn’t thinking that while walking back up!

The drive to Fort Davis was uneventful, except that time zone changes again screwed me up.  I wasn’t able to visit “West of the Pecos” Museum.  I am missing so many places!  The roads are excellent!  75 MPH (the speed limit) on what’s a country road is smooth as silk.  Tiny little Virginia, whose roads are horrible, should be ashamed.  (I saw a FedEx delivery truck on a road that had maybe three ranches for 70 miles!!  Drone deliveries would not be a bad idea out here.)

The campsite has free showers!  It’s the little things that count.  Especially after walking up 750 feet.  Tomorrow I stay in a hotel because all the campsites are taken.  I’m now a little worried about Big Bend National Park.  But it’s too late to make reservations.  I’ll get there early on Sunday.

Tonight I’m wearing three layers of clothing, plus sleeping bag plus liner.  And two hats, gloves and socks.  What fun.  A warm front sweeps through tomorrow, so I think this will be my last experience with cold for a while.

Another bad camping night.  My sleeping bag clearly isn’t cut out for cold nights.  36 degrees.  But I am sure that once the stars align I’ll have some great camping experiences.  Sunrise this morning almost made up for the night.  Well, no, not really.

Got to Columbus, NM without really remembering why it was on my list.  Did know that I wanted to go 3 miles south and walk into Palomas, Mexico to visit The Pink Store, which I did.  After all the hubbub at international airports, walking across was certainly anticlimactic.  Mostly, I just walked across.  The Pink Store was all it could be.  Full of colorful stuff that you’d buy, take home, then ask “Why did I buy this?”  I had Heuvos Rancheros and two cokes for $10.00.  There were dentist ads everywhere.

I returned to to discover why it was on my list.  On March 9th, 1916, Pancho Villa raided the town.    Note the date.  I missed the centennial anniversary by one day!  Though actually, they’re celebrating it on Saturday.  So if you’re somewhere in southern New Mexico, you now have somewhere to go.  Apparently, some riders will come up from Mexico to reenact the event.  That’s a border crossing I’d like to see.  The town has a beautiful State Park and Museum commemorating the event.

The ride, though, was getting to me.  Frankly, southern AZ and NM are boring.  So I changed course and headed to I10 for a fast getaway.  From there I decided to skip along to White Sands (a quick visit) and finish up in Artesia, NM.  (The ride through Lincoln National Forest was fun.) I’m about a day ahead of schedule.  I should get to Fort Davis tomorrow (Friday) after seeing Carlsbad Caverns.  The observatory there has a thing every Friday evening.

In Palomas, MX. Worth a walk across the border.

In the Pink Store.

Huevos rancheros.

Palomas. Pancho Villa.

A forerunner of a tank in 1916.

Looking west. There were no mountains looking east.

White Sands sledding.

The Titan Missile Museum south of Tucson was fantastic, sad and somewhat scary. The simulated launch made you think. I highly recommend the tour.  There’s a Minuteman museum in Wall, SD that I now need to visit.

The Tumacacori Mission a little further south had a lot of unique history that made it better than I expected. The church was interesting to me because I visited St. Peters just last December.  Entirely different, but somewhat similar.

I was running late, so I skipped my next stop.  Honda’s NAV is stupid. I deleted the one waypoint and it then kindly directed me back to the route’s beginning! I had to delete all previous waypoints.

Drove through Patagonia.  What a great name!  I stopped at Kief-Joshua Vineyards in Elgin (at random).  Along with a bunch of dogs, they have a very bored looking wallaby shuffling around the tasting room!  Weird.  Wine was good.  They had an 80% syrah/20% viognier!  Very unusual.

Tombstone.  Ugh.  Like Niagara Falls without the Falls.  98% tourist trap.  I was lucky to find the 2% history: The Tombstone Epitaph Newspaper Museum.  The rest was stupid touristy.  Go with kids, or don’t go.

Bisbee was on the way but not on my stop list.  My bad.  The drive through was a wonderful experience.  I did in fact stop for a few minutes, regretting my time at Tombstone.  It’s an old copper mine and mining community.  The open pit mine is huge!

Douglas, AZ was just a town I’ve always wanted to get to.  (Same with upcoming Austin, TX).  Turns out I visited the place twice, because 15 miles out I remembered that I needed to buy gas there.  I returned.  Lucky I did, because the next day I found nothing for miles and miles. I found the campsite just at dusk.  I saw my first javelina.  Ugly.

Overall, the roads were dull.  The stops made the ride.  Rodeo, AZ, with such a nice name, is a dead town, as were many other spots along the way.  Lots and lots of Border Patrol.

The Control Room. 1960’s technology.

The entire control room is mounted on springs to be “nuclear earthquake” proof.

The launch codes.

Our treaty with Russia requires that the hatch stay half-open

The Titan II put Gemini astronauts into orbit.

The bell tower isn’t damaged. It just wasn’t finished.

Signs, signs, signs.

Patagonia. I just like to say Patagonia.

A wallaby in a winery. Musical.

A vineyard in AZ. Not quite what one expects.

Sanitation Car. A port-a-potty on wheels.

Bisbee. The stock exchange is in a brewery.

850 feet deep.

Near this spot the indian wars ended with Geronimo’s surrender in 1886.

Sentinel Peak Park gave a nice overview of the city.  (It was certainly a nicer view before the city, but what can one do?)

Went to Musselman Honda for new tires.  From arrival to departure it was less than two hours.  Had some great conversations with service desk guy and customers, so it was time well spent.  Harley-Davidson dirt bikes, days of finicky carburetors, crazy drives, crazier drivers, etc.

Rest of the day at Pima Air Museum.  They include “and Space”, but it’s not really.  Huge place.  In four hours I barely scratched the surface.  They have 300 veteran volunteers to help spread first hand knowledge.  Paid extra for a tour of the Government “Boneyard”. 

New wheels!!

T-28. I flew in one of these in 1974. Didn’t barf.

T-2. I also flew in one of these. Barfed.

Boeing Demo 787 given to the Museum.

B-1 Lancer. $283 million plane, being used for parts.

Great weather day, with one bad news/good news caveat.  Tucson was having visible rain squalls and high winds.  Mission Rules dictate that I shall not have two consecutive bad nights camping, so I checked out hotels and found that Tucson has inexpensive rooms, well within my limit.  In addition, tomorrow is a scheduled hold-in-place day, so I booked two nights.  (It is raining now, contrary to weather forecasts.)  Anyway . . .

Yuma Proving Grounds has a great display outside the base (good luck getting onto the base).  Included is an M65, the only type of cannon actually used to fire a nuclear shell.

McPhaul “Bridge to Nowhere” Bridge.  Considered too flimsy to use in the 1950s, but it refuses to fall apart.

Ajo, AZ has mountains of slag, residue from open pit mining.  Sad to see, but they are impressive.  Ajo also has a truly incredible Border Patrol Office (Ajo Station), 9 miles south on 85.  Just massive.  On 86 East there were numerous little roadside memorials, like those I’ve seen for car accidents.  I don’t think these are for that.  As expected, lots of Border Patrolmen.

Drove up Kitt Peak, 6750 feet.  Large observatory installation.  A fun winding road to the top.  Great views.  Very nice visitors center.  I missed the tours.

Passed a group of 12 GWs heading west.  Three Trikes.

Tomorrow I’m having my tires replaced.  My present tires could probably do fine for a bit longer (San Antonio), but they’re a drain on my mind and I’m gong on roads less traveled.  Getting Dunlop E3s, for those who understand.

Sunrise at Squaw Lake Campground

Bridge to Nowhere

No Idea

Hey Arizona: The Mohawk Valley is in New York.

Ajo City Hall

Slag Pile

Monument across from the slag pile

Steering is unimportant.