November 2023

Thursday, November 2. Visited a very old temple. No photos. Listened to a novice monk. Practiced meditation.

Visited a center that assists victims of unexploded ordnance, dropped by the Air Force in the 60s/70s. It had a well organized museum and learning center. Listened to a soldier who lost both legs in 1970. Because he fought on the losing side of their civil war, the government gives him no support.

After lunch I walked a little. Discovered the temple where Laos kept the Emerald Buddha before Thailand appropriated it. Later we all attended a Puppet show, of sorts. Not a top-line performance, but interesting. The group often performs at schools, so the intellectual level is low.

Between an Italian or Lao restaurant, I chose the Lao. Mistake. Lao food leaves something to be desired. It wasn’t as bad as last night’s buffalo, but it also wasn’t much better.

I expected Laos would be a poor communist country. Expectations achieved.

Read more

Wednesday, November 1. Rode the new “high-speed” train to Vientiane. More like medium-speed (100 mph). It’s the train that may bankrupt Laos. The country owes China billions. Very, very smooth. Extremely high security. We had to pack any pointy things, including razors, separately and turn them in for safe-keeping.

The view was mostly of tunnel interiors and farmland. Among ramshackle homes were occasional mansions. Among shared poverty, exceptions exist.

Vientiane is not a pretty city. Old buildings, ancient electrical wiring, unkept roads. Trash. Traffic is weirdly sedate. No hustle and bustle. Right on red after a glance left to merge slowly into traffic.

Visited a “middle-class” home in the suburbs. Three sisters hosted five of us. Aged 45, 38, 29. Two children were very entertaining. They had puppies. I made balloons. The sister’s father was apparently a significant figure in the government, which explained the household’s wealthy condition and easy-going attitude. Though they spoke about the country’s hardships and government failings, I felt that they considered the situation as something separate from their daily life.

Read more

Tuesday, October 31. Today we visited a very poor community of about 80. Overseas Adventure has been gifting them with needed items for several years, including water tanks and an improved school for their (presently) 17 students in grades one and two. An excellent presentation about the school. Adorable children.

We also observed various home businesses working at a loom and making baskets. Tasted their home-brewed rice wine and whiskey. Observed an odd musical instrument. Helped make lunch. Etc. Listened to a confusing description of village politics as it pertained to communist rule. Not sure how much propaganda was involved.

Upon returning to Luang Prabang, I went for a walk, eventually climbing the central hill to watch the sunset. About 400 steps. Quite a crowd at the top. So-so sunset.

Had dinner at L’Elephant in order to try water buffalo meat. I was prepared to be surprised at it’s taste and texture, but unfortunately, it was as tasteless and tough as one would expect. Fortunately, the experience only cost me $11.50.

Read more